https://www.phoenixlawnaeration.com/contact-us.html

A1 Aeration, Tempe, AZ (2026)

10/11/2026

Not planting a winter lawn? Here are some tips that will ensure a healthy lawn for the next season.

Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer: In the fall, switch from a high-nitrogen fertilizer to a potassium-heavy, very low nitrogen/nitrogen-free formula. This strengthens the roots and hardens the grass for the winter, protecting against injury. Do not fertilize with high nitrogen as the grass prepares for dormancy. Every fertilizer bag has 3 numbers on it, like Andersons 0-0-25 or Simple Lawn Solutions liquid spray 0-0-25 (found on Amazon), which is just potassium and perfect to apply for your last fertilization of the season (generally mid/late October, or 4-6 weeks prior to steady cold nighttime temperatures). The first number on the bag is nitrogen, the second number is phosphorus, and the third number is potassium.

Apply a pre-emergent herbicide: When soil temperatures are consistently in the mid 50's (typically late November) apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent winter w**ds like poa from growing while your bermuda is dormant. Andersons "Barricade" is a good option, this can be found online at andersonslawn.com, or "Dimension" at local Ewing Irrigations Supply.

Raise your mowing height: As the temperatures cool down, begin raising your height of cut to allow the grass to grow slightly longer. The added length provides insulation for the roots during winter.

Taper off watering: Start reducing your watering frequency in the early to mid-fall. When the nighttime temperatures are consistently in the low 50's turn watering off completely for at least 2 weeks to help the grass enter dormancy. Once completely dormant, water approximately 1/2 inch per month. DO NOT turn off watering completely for the entire winter.

Winter (November-February)

Allow dormancy: Your bermuda lawn will turn brown as it goes dormant for the winter. This is a natural, healthy process that allows the grass to rest and store energy for spring.

Minimal watering: Dormant bermuda grass needs very little water. If there is no rain, water the lawn lightly about once every four weeks to prevent the roots from drying out completely. About a half-inch of water is sufficient.

Infrequent mowing: You can mow the dormant lawn once a month to maintain a neat appearance if desired.

W**d management: In addition to the fall pre-emergent, spot-treat any winter w**ds that appear. Do not use glyphosate (Roundup) on a dormant lawn, this will damage it. Use a lawn safe selective post-emergent. In late February apply another round of pre-emergent to help prevent the early spring w**ds.

*This is a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.

10/04/2026

Planting a winter lawn? Here are some tips.
Not planting at winter lawn? I'll be posting about this next.

When to Plant (Timing is Key)

Ideal Window:

Usually mid-October is ideal for overseeding. The complete ryegrass seeding window is typically from the beginning of October through November. Nighttime temperatures between the 60's to mid 50's.

Temperature Guideline: Ideally, wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently in the 60's.

Avoid Early/Late Planting: Planting too early allows the summer grass to compete, while planting too late can expose young seedlings to damaging low temperatures.

When the nighttime temperatures are in the low 70's to high 60's, start to reduce watering and begin mowing your lawn shorter in 1/3 incriminates, preparing for the final scalp. 10-14 days prior to your winter lawn install, turn off water completely.

How to Plant

Scalp Your Lawn: Mow the existing summer grass to approximately 1/2 inch to help expose the soil. We want the rye seed to get plenty of sunlight and direct contact with the soil.

Remove Thatch: Rake up the cut grass and remove any thatch (dead grass layer) to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. A light de-thatch / power rake works great for this.

Apply Ryegrass Seed: Use a spreader to broadcast perennial ryegrass seed evenly. Broadcast the seed in two perpendicular directions for the best and most even coverage. Apply at the rate of 12-15 lbs per 1000ft². Try not to over apply the seed, this will harm the bermuda grass in the spring when it is coming out of dormancy. Hand seed or use a drop spreader around the perimeter of your lawn to avoid seed getting into flower beds or unwanted areas.

Very Important: Gently rake the seed into the soil to ensure seed to soil contact.

Apply Fertilizer: Use a starter fertilizer, follow manufacturer's directions for application rates.

Add Seed Cover (Optional): Lightly spread a thin layer (no more than 1/4 inch) of topper soil / seed cover to help retain moisture and add nutrients. This will produce a faster seed germination. Seed cover is recommended if you plant later in the season, nighttime temperatures below 55 degrees.

Water Frequently: Water the lawn daily for short periods (e.g., 4-6 times a day) to keep the top inch of soil moist. Continue this until your see consistent germination, then you can reduce watering duration by approximately 1/3.

When your ryegrass is approximately 2-3 inches tall. Turn off watering for 24 hours and mow to approximately 1.5 inches. Turn watering back on immediately, set for 2-3 times per day until your second mowing. After this, reduce watering to once per morning. Watering duration/times will vary for each lawn / irrigation system.

Watering Technique: Avoid puddling, as this can cause the seed to float and seed damage/rot. Not enough watering will cause uneven growth, no germination / seed damage.

Why These Steps Matter

Summer Dormancy: Winter grass, typically ryegrass, is planted because the native warm-season grasses (like Bermuda) go dormant in the winter.

Successful Germination: Scalping and removing thatch create an ideal environment for the cool-season ryegrass seed to germinate. Seed to soil contact is key.

Healthy Growth: Consistent moisture and the right temperatures are essential for vulnerable seedlings to establish a strong root system.

*This is a general guide line and may not apply to every lawn or situation.

09/26/2026

NOW BOOKING!..Winter Lawn Installation $295.00

Here's what A1 Aeration is currently offering:

Winter lawn installation for $295.00 (800ft² or less) I only seed smaller lawns. (1500ft² max = $395.00)

What's included?

*Lawn Scalp
*Light De-thatch
*Manual Rake / Bagging Thatch
*Premium Perennial Rye-Grass
*Manual Rake Seed Into Soil
*Seed Start Fertilizer
*Irrigation System Check
*Timer Program
*Maintenance Instructions

(Topper soil available for $10 per 2 cu/ft bag)

Text to set up an appointment...Space is limited!

480-276-8222

Thank you, Jesse

09/12/2026

Fertilization - What should we currently be doing?

If you are planning on installing a winter lawn or not, here is what your fertilization schedule should look like:

For warm-season grass (bermuda) going dormant: Apply a final dose of fertilizer in early fall (late September - early October) before your lawn goes dormant for the winter. A slow-release fertilizer like Andersons 16-0-8, which is often lower nitrogen and higher in potassium, can help prepare the grass to withstand winter stress. Apply at a rate of approximately 6lbs per 1000ft², always fertilize in the evening and soak it in immediately. A final slow-release fertilizer of the season to help the lawn recover from summer stress and prepare for winter dormancy. This encourages root development rather than new top growth, resulting in a healthier lawn in the spring.

If you decide to plant a winter lawn: Your last fertilization should be 4 weeks before you do the installation process. So right about now would be your last the time for this. A lower nitrogen fertilizer with some potassium is recommended. Something like Andersons 16-0-8 is a good choice. Apply at a rate of approximately 3-4 lbs per 1000ft². Always fertilize in the evening and soak it in immediately.

If you are installing a winter lawn: Now is the time to get Core Aeration. This will allow enough time for the bermuda to recover and build stronger, deeper roots before the winter lawn install. Plus, aeration will help condition the soil to help retain more moisture, nutrients, and oxygen, which will significantly help in the winter ryegrass germination process. Message me anytime to set up an appointment for Core Aeration - A1 Aeration. Starting at $120.00 for 1000ft² or less.

* This is general information and may not apply to all lawns or circumstances.

07/13/2026

Do you have trouble areas in your Bermuda Lawn? Are there areas that just aren't growing or filling in properly?

Here's one great method to help these areas thrive again:

This method is called plugging, using the pro-plugger tool. This method involves taking plugs from strong / thriving areas of your lawn and planting them in the struggling areas. If you know your Bermuda Grass type, you can purchase that particular sod and take the plugs from that as well.

Keep in mind that there is always a reason these problem areas are suffering. You'll need to remedy these issues prior to plugging.

Before you start the plugging:

Make sure the struggling areas are getting watered correctly. You may need to add a sprinker or replace the sprinkers in those areas prior to plugging.

Check for grubs or other insects that could be the root cause. Refer to my prior post for further information on grubs.

Check for signs of fungus and treat as necessary.

If the problem area is mostly in the shade, then this process will mostly likely not help.

Before plugging, the areas will need to be deep soaked with a hose a few times before you get started with the process. This will loosen / condition the soil to help get out a deep plug.

Here are the links to the pro-plugger website detailing the process of plugging using their tool:

Pro-plugger on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/0dIOhMmz

Pro-plugger website:

https://proplugger.com/lawn-repair-turn-your-yard-into-a-sod-farm-with-video/

05/31/2026

What do 70° nighttime temperatures mean?

*Bermuda-Grass is fully awake and now needs regular fertilization. 21-0-0 is recommended if you haven't had a soil test. Apply approximately 5lbs per 1000ft². Apply every 4-6 weeks. Always fertilize in the evening if possible and soak it in immediately.

*Watering should be between 1.25-1.5 inches per lawn zone, per week. Deep water 2-3 times per week, early morning 4-5 am. Please note: If you have been watering your bermuda grass daily or even multiple times per day DO NOT just switch to deep watering 2 -3 times per week abruptly, you will send your lawn into shock. You will need to retrain your lawn, soil, and roots slowly, over time. Example: Start by switching to watering every other day this season, then next year switch to 3 times per week and so on.

*Mow frequently, at least one time per week is recommended. This will help the bermuda grass to use its energy to spread rather than growing vertically. Bag the clipping to help prevent the spread of w**ds.

*Spot treat w**ds and unwanted grasses with targeted post emergents. Read and follow the directions for each product. You want to apply post emergents before the temperatures get too hot.

*A light de-thatch, just above the soil surface to remove dead ryegrass and other built-up thatch without disturbing the bermuda grass as much as possible. This will allow sunlight to reach the bermuda grass root base and stimulate new growth.

*Core Aeration - This is a great time to start planning on getting this done. Core Aeration helps alleviate soil compaction, allowing water, nutrients, and oxygen to get deeper into the soil. This will help grow stronger and deeper roots, resulting in a more healthy and resilient lawn.

Reach out anytime to make an appointment - A1 Aeration

**This is just a general guide line and may not apply to all lawns and situations.

05/03/2026

Time to Fertilize?

Now that our nighttime temperatures here in the Valley are going to be consistently in the mid-60's or higher, our summer grasses should be awake and growing.

At this point in the season, for the average bermuda lawn, you should have already:

*Checked your sprinklers for proper functioning and coverage.

*Cut the grass very short.

*Started your deep watering, infrequently.

*Raked or lightly de-thatched the dead ryegrass out or just some of that dead bermuda grass thatch. This allows sunlight to get to the root base to stimulate faster growth.

For those that started the process earlier, you have applied one light round of fertilizer.

If you have not started this processes at all (force transitioning), start this NOW!

For those that have completed all the steps above, your bermuda grass is now ready for a full around of fertilization. In most cases, ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 will work great. Apply at the rate of approximately 5lbs per 1000ft². Apply this same amount every 4-6 weeks during the bermuda grass growing season. During the warmer / hot months, it's best fertilize in the evening if possible, and soak it in immediately. Run your full deep soak cycle. This will help prevent chemical burn.

How much should we be currently watering?

With the nighttime temperatures in mid-60's, soon to be 70's, we should be at approximately 1 inch of water per week, increasing up to 1.5 inches per week as the temperatures rise.

If you have not already, you need to make sure your sprinkers are working properly and measure your sprinklers water output to know these measurements. This is the first and most important step to having and maintaining a healthy bermuda summer lawn. This is called a sprinker output audit (irrigation audit) or the old school term "tuna can method." The basic idea is to put multiple water collection cups (more the better) like these found on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/02CPa2fB

Strategically place them around the lawn per each lawn zone area, requiring one measurement test per lawn zone. Run your sprinklers for a set amount of time, say 15 minutes or 30 minutes depending on your type of sprinkers, then measure the amount of water in the collection cups. Let's say hypothetically it was 1/4 of an inch on average throughout the cups, you would now know it took 15 minutes to achieve 1/4 inch of water in that lawn zone. Repeat the process for each zone. This is a very simple way to at least get a general idea of your sprinkers output. There are way more in depth methods to get a more accurate measurement but this is a very simple way to get the basic idea of your watering amount / time per lawn zone. AZ LAWN DAD offers this as a service, it is well worth the money. He does a very thorough and detailed irrigation audit. Reach out to him for Sand Leveling as well, he's the best.

NOW is the time to get your lawn soil some Core Aeration! I offer this service and I have the best rates in the Valley. Reach out anytime, A1 Aeration. Also, every aeration comes with a free basic lawn consultation.

Please read my last post about "Soil Health." Our desert soils do not hold a high nutrient value, and it requires more effort than other soils, in other regions. Research products like Biochar, Humic Acid, Granular Gypsum, Kelp, Worm Castings, W**d Free High Nutrient Compost etc.. These help improve soil structure, help retain moisture, and introduce beneficial microbes that are often absent in desert soil. They are best applied right after Core Aeration, to get the maximum benefits. Also, remember this is NOT a one and done situation. Aeration and adding valuable nutrients/microbes is recommended to do on a regular/ annual basis to maintain good soil health here in the desert.

If you would like to learn more about all that is soil health, reach out to The Garden Nerd:

https://www.facebook.com/share/1JGyybukeh/.

Michael is a wealth of knowledge and offers this as a service as well. Highly recommend!

(*This is just a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.)

04/11/2026

*Soil Conditioning = Healthy Lawn*

Keeping your lawn soil in the best condition possible will ensure you have a healthy green lawn throughout the summer.

Soil testing - It's very smart to start here. Testing your lawn soil and knowing exactly what it needs is 100% recommended. Knowing your soil nutrient levels is very crucial for choosing the correct fertilizers and amendments. Testing will help you choose the correct products and how much is needed, instead of wasting money and time on products you may not even need.

Here are a couple of links for soil testing:

Andersons Lawn

https://andersonslawn.com/products/soil-test-and-probe?_pos=2&_sid=1d00ff2ca&_ss=r

OR

Texas A&M

https://soiltesting.tamu.edu/ #:~:text=The%20laboratory%20is%20open%20Monday%20through%20Friday,The%20laboratory's%20phone%20number%20is%20(979)%20321%2D5960

These are easy to use. Just follow the instructions provided, and you'll usually get the results rather quickly. For the first time, make sure to order a Stainless Steel Soil Sample Probe to make it easier to collect an accurate soil sample. Here is an Amazing Link: https://a.co/d/0dbU8qes

Lawn Aeration - This is a very important step, especially here in Arizona, with our type of soil composition (desert loam). Core Aeration helps alleviate soil compaction and increases water absorption. This allows the water, nutrients, and oxygen to get deeper into the soil, building stronger deeper roots. Aeration is recommended annually to maintain proper soil conditions. A1 Aeration

Adding organic materials - such as compost, humic acid, biochar, worm castings, kelp (and many others) to desert lawn soil dramatically improves its ability to hold water and nutrients, which are commonly lost due to our harsh desert environment. It breaks up compacted, dense, or caliche soils to improve air circulation, promotes deep root growth, and adds beneficial microbes to boost soil fertility.

The Benefits -

*Drastically Improved Water Retention: Organic matter acts like a sponge, helping arid soil hold water, which reduces the need for frequent irrigation.

*Enhanced Nutrient Availability: It adds crucial organic nutrients, breaking down over time to feed the soil, unlike inorganic fertilizers that quickly leach away.

*Soil Structure Amendment: It helps bond sand particles together and breaks up heavy, dense clay particles, creating a better environment for grass roots.

*Reduced Soil Temperature: Adding organic matter helps keep soil temperatures cooler, which reduces stress on grass roots during extreme heat.

*Reduced Compaction: It improves aeration and drainage, allowing roots to breathe and grow deeper.

How to Apply:

Topdressing: Spread a thin layer (about 1/4 inch) of compost or compost mixed with sand over the lawn, ideally combined with Core Aeration to help the organic material pe*****te deep into the soil.

AZ Worm Farm is a great place to purchase nutrient rich soil, here's a link: https://share.google/EmvVr0sWCPFwhXH4p

(Important: when adding organic materials to your lawn, ALWAYS make sure you know the source and that it is as w**d / w**d seed free as possibe)

Another product that is highly recommended and helps rebuild / maintain soil structure is HumiChar by The Andersons -

HumiChar acts as a soil amendment in desert environments by increasing water retention, improving nutrient uptake, and boosting microbial activity, directly counteracting sandy or poor soil conditions. Its 50/50 mix of biochar and humic acid uses Dispersible Granule (DG) Technology to move into the root zone, reducing nutrient leaching and helping lawns withstand extreme heat and drought stress. Here's a link for this product:

https://andersonslawn.com/products/humichar?srsltid=AfmBOopmN1BeIKxt4adtvFjZu3-63oS5X3Ww4q6XRsCiiuA75UR-OSwC&variant=47528653947126

HumiChar, along with other soil conditioners like Granular Gypsum, are best applied after Core Aeration.

Sanding - Sanding lawns in Arizona offer several benefits, primarily focusing on improving soil health and structure, particularly in the face of this state's harsh climate and soil conditions. Sanding can enhance drainage, aeration, and water retention, leading to healthier, more resilient grass. It also helps to level uneven lawns and can reduce thatch buildup (Note: there is no nutrient value in sand and this should only be done on lawns that are ready for this process).

Sanding should only be done when the Bermuda-Grass is growing strong, typically late-May through July. Core Aeration is highly recommended prior to sanding. This will greatly increase the effectiveness of the process. If you are in the East /Central Valley, reach out to AZ Lawn Dad (Justin 760-525-2087) for more information on this subject.

*This post is only a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or circumstance.

A1 Aeration

10/11/2026

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