Menne Garden Artistry

08/11/2018

Time to add to your landscape? Let us help you plan and plant it!
Tell us what you have in mind. We will help you visualize it and then build it for you! Designing and scheduling now for Fall installations. 716 693 4444

08/05/2018

Does your water feature need a little TLC? We can replace your liner, rebuild walls, add plants and make it look like new for you to enjoy! Call for your personal consultation: 716 693 4444

08/03/2018

Add a picturesque walkway to temp your visitors to enjoy your backyard living area. From assessment to concept to reality. Just waiting for the grass to grow!

07/29/2018

Pruning hydrangeas: taking away the mystery

Hydrangea blooms may be affected by how and when you prune these plants. Pruning is determined by the type of hydrangea you have. Most hydrangeas will never need pruning IF YOU PLANT THEM IN THE RIGHT PLACE AND GIVE THEM ROOM TO GROW!!! Do some research and find out about the hydrangea you want to see if you have room for it. You will both be happier. If you insist on squeezing a hydrangea in, you will need to learn about pruning.

So far we have focused on Hydrangea Macrophylla or Big Leaf Hydrangea. Within this category, there are the mop heads, lace caps and mountain hydrangeas.

Mop heads - large round or oval flower heads
Lace caps - flat flower heads with large florets around the outside and smaller ones in the middle
Mountain – smaller plants with blooms that are not so round and not so flat, usually very hardy

In general, old-fashioned Macrophylla bloom on older wood so you have to be careful not to remove the blooms for next year. They canes look like they die back to the ground each year, but try to resist pruning them down to the ground. Be patient and see if buds start to emerge in the spring, leading to leaves and then blooms. If you must prune them, try removing only the flowers soon after they start to fade. Leaving them on the plant adds winter interest. With all the varieties available, you should be able to find one that fits your space.

Newer varieties of Macrophylla such as Endless Summer®, Cityline®, and Let’s Dance® will bloom on both new and old wood and are almost foolproof when it comes to pruning. Just don't go overboard.

Next: paniculata, petiolaris, quercifolia, arborescens . . .

07/28/2018

Color Magic: Blue, Purple or Pink!

Hydrangea Macrophylla (Big Leaf, Mophead or French Hydrangeas) are the ones that bloom in pink or blue or any color in between. The nifty thing is that you can control the color . . . unless that starting color is white!

The pH of your soil determines if a plant can absorb the available aluminum in the soil. Generally speaking, acidic soil with a pH lower than 6.0 does not allow the plant to use aluminum and yields shades of blue hydrangea blooms. Alkaline soil, with a pH above 7.0, allows the plant to use aluminum, resulting in shades of pinks and reds. With a pH between 6 and 7, the blooms tend to be purple or bluish-pink and may result in different colored flowers on the same bush.

While some named varieties of hydrangeas are resistant to change, most any blue hydrangea may be made to turn pink and vise versa. Use a soil kit – available at most garden centers - to determine the pH of your soil. Add garden sulfur or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH for blue shades. Add ground lime to raise the pH for pink. Read the package directions and retest soil to see if you have reached the levels you want. You may have to repeat application to obtain the desired results, and repeat yearly to maintain those pH levels.

Other things to think about! Note the plants around your hydrangea. If you are applying a pH reducer, be sure the surrounding plants enjoy an acid soil. Evergreens and broadleaf evergreen in general make good companion plants. If your hydrangea is growing near a concrete walk or patio, concrete often contains lime, making it tough to turn hydrangeas blue. Have fun casting the spell and creating color magic for your hydrangeas!

Watch for: Pruning Hydrangeas - can this story have a happy ending?

07/27/2018

Planting your big leaf hydrangea

Once you have prepared the soil and found the right spot for light, set your hydrangeas in place. The plant tag will inform you how large the plant will get, so plan room for the plants to barely touch at maturity. This allows air circulation and most importantly . . . reduces the need for pruning. Pruning hydrangeas can be tricky and will be discussed at a later date.

Water the plants well. Dig the planting hole larger than the pot size. Mix soil, organic matter and fertilizer. (If you are planting after September 1, cut the fertilizer to half of the package recommendations) Remove plant from the container and loosen the roots gently with your fingers if they are tightly packed. This will encourage root growth. Place soil mixture in the hole so that the crown of the plant (where the roots and stem come together) will sit slightly above the existing soil level. If planted too high the plant will dry out faster and heave in the winter. If placed too low, it will result in fewer blooms and potential rot.

Place soil mixture around the root ball, filling the hole to within an inch of the top. With your hose turned on low, push it well into the loose soil and wait for the water to bubble up to the top, moving the hose around the plant until the soil is saturated. This allows the water to pe*****te the soil and reach the roots. Finish filling the hole, rake the soil level and place 2-3 inches of mulch around the plant, keeping mulch a few inches away from the crown. Refer to the previous post on continued watering.

A further word on fertilizing: Hydrangeas should be fertilized in spring or early summer with a granular, slow release fertilizer with a high percentage of phosphorus, the element that encourages blooms. This is the middle number found on the container - the NPK ratio. Package instructions should be followed and more is NOT better. You may cause fewer flowers and giant leaves! Only newly planted hydrangeas should be fertilized in the fall using half the recommended rates.

Coming soon: Color Magic!

07/25/2018

Where should I plant my Big Leaf Hydrangea (Macrophylla)

As they say, location, location, location!

In northern climates - Zones 4-5 - this is very important for successful blooming. Hydrangeas need some sun to set flowers and protection from hot afternoon sun that causes them to wilt. A perfect place would be one with full morning sun followed by dappled afternoon shade. In addition, you need to consider existing plants, available space and where you want to add summer color.

Other than climate, soil is the most important aspect of growing plants. Hydragneas prefer a loamy soil; 40% sand, 40% silt and 20% clay. For more on testing the content of your soil go to
http://www.endlesssummerblooms.com/design-and-grow/planting-and-care

Once you’ve determined what type of soil you have, prepare the soil by adding organic matter to sandy or clay soil. This will improve water retention and drainage. Peat moss, humus and compost can help retain moisture while allowing roots to freely grow. Spread organic matter 2 – 6 inches deep across the entire bed and work in to the soil. You may also want to apply gypsum to clay soils. A good rule of thumb is to apply 5–15 pounds of gypsum per 100 square feet.

Call on Menne Garden Artistry's landscape professionals to improve your garden soil. http://www.mennegardenartistry.com/

Nest episode: How to plant your hydrangea.

07/22/2018

Hydrangeas!
This is an endless topic as there are so many varieties with various light, watering and soil pH needs. If your hydrangea is not looking well these days, chances are you have Hydrangea Macrophylla, also known as Big Leaf Hydrangea or Mop Head Hydrangea. In general these hydrangea have large leaves and large round or oval flower heads that can be pink, purple or blue depending on soil pH. The same plant can be made to have different flower color by adjusting that pH.

Before we get to that we probably need to get some water on your Hydrangea Macrophylla! On extremely hot, sunny days you may notice plants wilting slightly in the afternoon. They may revive when temperatures cool and the sun moves on, but this is an indication that you may need to water. Feel the soil! Water slowly and thoroughly, from the ground level if possible. Drip or soaker hoses or hand watering give the best results. The earlier in the day the better. This allows the plant time to take up water before the hot sun shines down. Mulching will help if applied properly. Up to three inches of mulch will help to keep the soil cooler and moister. Thicker mulch may interfere with the soil getting ample moisture to offer the plant roots.

Hydrangeas prefer well-drained, moist soil, however, overwatering can cause less flowering. Depending on your soil type, you will need to adjust how frequently and how much you water. Clay soil holds more water than sandy or loam soil types, and produces more runoff because it doesn’t allow as much water to soak in as a looser sandy soil. Adding organic matter to soil will help it to drain better while holding moisture. Adding gypsum to clay soil will help to break up the clay allowing the soil to allow the plant to use the water in the soil more efficiently.

Look for more on hydrangeas in the next few days!

07/21/2018

XERISCAPING (xe·ri·scape·ing)

To landscape (an area) in a style which requires little or no irrigation.

We are truly experiencing the Dog Days of Summer here in Western New York. Time to think about how to deal with not only this very dry season, but those to come. Originally developed for drought-afflicted areas, with water now considered an expensive and limited resource, the principles of xeriscape can benefit all areas and landscaping projects.

SOME XERISCAPING BENEFITS:

Saves Water
For most of North America, over 50% of residential water used is applied to landscape and lawns. Xeriscape can reduce landscape water use by 50 – 75%.

Less Maintenance
Aside from occasional pruning and weeding, maintenance is minimal. Watering requirements are low, and can be met with simple irrigation systems.

Less Fertilizers or Pesticides needed
Using plants native to your area will eliminate the need for chemical supplements. Sufficient nutrients are provided by healthy organic soil.

Provides Wildlife Habitat
Use of native plants, shrubs, and trees offer a familiar and varied habitat for local wildlife.

BEFORE YOU PLANT:

improve the condition of your soil so that it holds moisture, yet drains well by adding organic matter. Peat moss, compost, rotted manure, leaves etc. will add the necessary organic matter. This doesn't happen overnight. Keep adding every year!

PARTIAL LIST OF PLANTS THAT USE LESS WATER:

TREES- Smoke Tree, Washington Hawthorne, Grey Dogwood, Black Locust & Amur Maple

SHRUBS- Potentilla, Fragrant Sumac, Honeysuckle,
Witch Hazel, Rugosa Roses, Bayberry, Snowberry & Spirea

PERENNIALS- Artemisia, Echinacea, Gaillardia, Lambs Ears, Lavender, Sages, Sedum, Hens & Chicks, Yarrow, Rudbeckia, Yucca & some Iris

ANNUALS- Cosmos, Marigolds, Phlox, Zinnia, Portulaca

for more info: https://learn.eartheasy.com/guides/xeriscape/

IF WATERING NEEDS ARE A CONCERN: Be sure to inform our Landscape Consultants when working with us to create your custom living space! http://www.mennenursery.com/

Shop annuals, perennials, herbs, vegetables, trees & shrubs. We have a full greenhouse, florist and landscaping department. Wide selection of outdoor furniture.

07/20/2018

Your plants are thirsty!
Our area is experiencing extremely dry, hot and humid weather. Your plants may need extra water to survive. Watering wisely will benefit your plants while making the best use of this precious resource.

~ Water slowly and thoroughly! Allow water to pe*****te the soil more deeply. Think about where the roots are! It is better to water a couple of times a week with plenty of water rather than a little water every day.

~ Water early in the day if possible. This allows the plants to take up water before the hot sun begins to evaporate it. If you water at night, avoid wetting the foliage and water from the bottom.

~ Wet leaves can become diseased leaves. Kept wet overnight, leaf spot and other fungal diseases may result. Leaves that are wet in the sun can develop slight burn marks (water droplets act like a magnifying glass).

~ Be sure the water goes where needed . . . to the roots! While mulch can keep moisture in, thickly mulched beds keep the water from getting to the soil. Three inches of mulch is enough! You might want to rake excessive mulch away before applying fresh mulch.