07/25/2026
Building Soil Part 4
The Big Picture.
With soil, context is king. Learning to read and understand the terrain is the most important factor in your soil building journey. Knowing how different soil types, past land use, weeds/plants, soil minerals, and current management all interact together is the difference between taking actionable steps and just spinning your wheels.
Past land use has drastic effects on how soils act. Learning the history of the land is very important. It's one of the essential questions I ask when working with a client. Any disturbance to the soil profile can have detrimental effects. Often times the area around where a house has been constructed has had the soil regraded and the soil layers inverted. The same could be said for land used for row crop production.
When organic matter gets trapped below the surface, excess CO2 or even methane or ethane can be released into the soil. This leads to the growth of many types of weeds. This especially true if that organic matter is covered with heavy soils like clay that do not drain well.
Hayfields are notorious for having lifeless soils. Cropfields often have a hardpan in them. Strip mined land has it's soil organic matter destroyed and suffers from heavy metal toxicity. These "artifacts" from the past are often present long after the land use has changed. Take note of indicators of past use and take time to learn the history of your soil. This can be critical to addressing problems that could be overlooked.
Soil texture is another major factor. While many tools work well in all soil types, paying attention to soil types and textures can direct you to the most effective course of action. Sandy soils might benefit from cover crops or biochar, and clay might benefit from broad-forking or a microbial inoculant. In both cases we might be addressing low soil organic matter, but our approach may change based on soil type.
Observe any effects related to soil texture and type. Are you dealing with soil that is tight? Is it eroding? Waterlogged or draining too quickly? Maybe it isn't able to infiltrate water at all and any rainfall just runs off...
Dig into the soil to see how deep the topsoil is (if you have any topsoil at all). You can also observe how deep plant roots are penetrating. Can you drive a stake into the soil with your hand or do you need a hammer? Check how deep it goes and pay attention to any hardpan layers. Soil texture is very important in my line of work.
The weeds and plants in a given area can tell you a lot about the soil conditions. Some plants may indicate past pesticide use. There are plants that indicate high aluminum (which can inhibit nutrient uptake in plants), iron, or other elements. Many weeds grow in soils that are low in calcium. Other plants grow in places where organic matter is rotting in the soil. Others indicate sandy soil that doesn't retain nutrients or water. Some grow in waterlogged places.
Plants can fairly accurately indicate nutrient availability. Each species has a "window" of conditions it will tolerate. By taking note of the plants growing in a given area, you can look for themes indicated by those plants. If several plants indicate conditions that pertain to a certain nutrient being too high or low, it can be safe to assume that is the case. There are plants that only thrive when conditions are nearly ideal. Reading the weeds is an invaluable skill that, in some cases, may be more accurate than (but not as specific as) some soil tests.
There are many things you conclude simply by observation. Red soils indicate high iron. Tight soils usually have a low calcium to magnesium ratio. Do these observations line up with other indicators? Is there bare soil? Why? In several cases I have able to address problems for clients by observing that they had used pine mulch on their garden, and then applying an appropriate microbial input.
By observing indicators of past land use, learning about its history, taking note of soil type, texture, and color, reading the weeds, and considering current land management, you can make decisions to improve your soil. Once you have a good idea of what needs corrections, you can apply the appropriate tools.
Building soil is a lifelong journey. There are so many factors in soil that, without proper context, you can easily do more harm than good in your attempts to build it. It is very important to take things slowly and pay attention to feedback loops. Pay attention to what your land and plants are telling you. Learn, learn, learn. Be patient. The reward of rich soil is worth it.
In some ways, soil building is more of an art than a science. We'll take a look at that next...