10/06/2026
Before you answer, run your hand across the nearest piece of wood on your site.
Rough? Smooth? Somewhere in between?
Whatever you felt just now, there's a sandpaper for that exact moment. And by the end of this post, you'll know exactly which one.
But first. A quick question for every carpenter, furniture maker, and fundi wa mbao in the comments 👇
At what stage does your sanding usually go wrong?
🅐 — I start too rough and damage the wood
🅑 — I skip grits and the paint shows scratches
🅒 — I don't know when to stop sanding
🅓 — Honestly? I just grab whatever is available
Drop your letter below. No judgement, this is a learning zone. 👇
Now. Let's talk wood.
Wood is forgiving but only if you treat it right. Sand it wrong and it will embarrass you in front of your client. Sand it right and your finish will do the talking long after you've left the site.
Here's the exact sequence. Step by step.
Shape It: Grit #40 to #60
Fresh-cut timber. Rough-sawn edges. Uneven plywood surface. This is where you start; not to finish, but to dominate the surface. Get it flat. Get it level. Remove whatever doesn't belong.
Think of it like demolition before construction. You're not building yet. You're clearing the ground.
Use on: rough timber, uneven boards, freshly cut edges, warped surfaces
Smooth the Foundation: Grit #80 to #100
The rough work is done. Now you're refining. This stage removes the deep scratch marks from Step 1 and starts bringing the wood's character out. You'll begin to see the grain. You'll begin to feel the difference under your hand.
Don't rush this. A foundation poorly laid always shows later.
Use on: after initial shaping, before filler or putty, general surface prep
Prep for Primer: Grit #120
This is the most important grit for wood on a Nairobi site. If primer goes onto an under-sanded surface, it will peel. It will bubble. Your client will call you and not to say thank you.
#120 opens the wood grain just enough to let primer grip properly. It's the handshake between your wood and your paint.
Use on: bare wood before any primer or undercoat, MDF edges, door frames, window frames
Between Coats: Grit #150 to #180
You've primed. Now before the next coat goes on, stop. Sand lightly with #150 or #180. This is called keying; creating microscopic texture so your next coat has something to hold onto.
Most people skip this. Most people's paint starts peeling within a year.
You're not most people.
Use on: between undercoat and topcoat, between varnish layers, between furniture lacquer coats
The Final Pass: Grit #220
This is the moment before the topcoat. The surface should feel almost glassy under your hand. No ridges. No lines. No evidence of the journey it took to get here.
Run your palm across it. Close your eyes if you have to.
If you feel anything, sand again.
If you feel nothing, you're ready.
Use on: final wood surface before gloss paint, clear varnish, or lacquer topcoat. Furniture, cabinetry, doors.