4 Seasons Grounds Services

29/08/2026

🦔 Supporting Wildlife in the August Garden: Hedgehogs, Bats, and Birds Before Winter

August is a critical month for garden wildlife. Many species are building the fat reserves they will need to survive winter: hedgehogs are feeding intensively before hibernation; bats are at their most active through warm August nights; and many garden bird species are beginning to moult and rebuild condition after the breeding season. Simple actions taken in August can make a significant difference to the wildlife population that overwinters in your garden.

HEDGEHOGS 🦔

Hedgehogs need to reach a weight of approximately 600 grams before they hibernate safely. A hedgehog that enters hibernation underweight in October may not survive.
To support hedgehogs in August:
• Leave areas of rough grass and leaf litter undisturbed at the boundary of the garden.
• Place food (a small dish of cat or dog food, or specific hedgehog food from a garden centre) under a shelter the hedgehog can access but cats cannot.
• Water is particularly important in dry August conditions: a shallow dish of fresh water near the feeding station is very valuable.
• Avoid using slug pellets: hedgehogs eat slugs and snails, and ingesting poisoned prey harms them.

BATS 🦇

• Leave moth-attracting plants in place: evening-flowering plants such as nicotiana, hesperis (sweet rocket), and night-scented stock attract moths, which are the primary food source for most UK bat species. A garden that supports moths supports bats.
• Reduce or avoid outdoor lighting through the night: bats hunt along defined commuting routes, often along hedge lines and woodland edges. Bright lighting disrupts these routes and deters bats from feeding.
• Leave any gaps or crevices in old walls, under roof tiles, or in tree bark undisturbed: these are the roosting sites that many bat species depend on.

GARDEN BIRDS 🐦

August is a transition month for garden birds. The breeding season is over; many birds are moulting and temporarily less mobile. Fresh water remains critically important: a bird bath kept filled and clean in warm August weather is used extensively. Food put out now (particularly fat balls, mealworms, and sunflower hearts) supports birds during the demanding moult period. Continuing to provide food from now through winter establishes a regular feeding station that birds will return to reliably.

THE WILDER PRINCIPLE 🌿

A garden managed with some areas of deliberate untidiness - rough grass, log piles, undisturbed hedges, leaf litter corners - supports significantly more wildlife than one that is immaculately managed throughout. The wildlife that overwinters in these spaces is the same wildlife that controls pests, pollinates flowers, and produces the rich, active soil that productive gardens depend on.

🌿 Want to know how to make your garden more wildlife-friendly? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month guidance throughout the year.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

We provide comprehensive grounds maintenance services through all seasons including Affordable commercial Grounds Maintenance and Commercial Gardening contracts

25/08/2026

🌿 Sowing Green Manures After Harvest: What They Do, Which to Use, and How to Sow Them

When a section of kitchen garden has been harvested and cleared, the instinct is often to leave it bare through autumn and winter. The better option in almost every case is to sow a green manure. A green manure is any fast-growing plant sown specifically to cover bare ground, improve soil structure, and either fix nitrogen (legumes) or return organic matter when dug in. August and early September are the best months for autumn green manures: the soil is warm, germination is fast, and the plants have time to establish well before the cold weather arrives.

WHAT GREEN MANURES DO 🌱

• Cover bare soil: bare soil loses nutrients through rain, erodes, and develops a surface crust through winter. A green manure covering protects the soil surface and suppresses w**d growth.
• Improve soil structure: roots pe*****te and open the soil. When the green manure is dug in (or left on the surface as a mulch), the decomposing organic matter improves the structure of Worcestershire clay soils significantly over successive seasons.
• Fix nitrogen (legumes only): clovers, vetches, and field beans all fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil through a symbiotic relationship with bacteria in their root nodules. Nitrogen fixed by a green manure is a genuine addition to the soil fertility that benefits the following crop.
• Provide habitat: a green manure growing through winter provides food and shelter for beneficial insects and invertebrates.

WHICH GREEN MANURES TO SOW NOW 📋

• Phacelia: one of the fastest and most effective green manures for August and September sowing. It germinates quickly in warm soil, produces dense leafy coverage, and is killed by the first hard frosts, leaving a mulch that can be raked off or dug in. Not suitable if you intend to leave it through winter in frost-prone areas.
• Winter tares (hairy vetch): a nitrogen-fixing legume that survives winter and can be left until late March or April before digging in. Excellent for sowing in August on beds that will not be needed until spring.
• Mustard: very fast to germinate (often within three or four days in warm August soil). Produces good coverage quickly. Killed by frost. Useful for a quick clean-up before a late autumn planting, but do not use where brassicas will follow, as mustard is in the same family.
• Crimson clover: nitrogen-fixing; produces attractive red flowers if left to flower in spring. Survives most Worcestershire winters.

HOW TO SOW 🌾

Remove any crop residues and fork the soil surface lightly. Broadcast sow the seed evenly over the surface, rake in lightly, and firm with the back of the rake. Water in if conditions are dry. Most autumn green manures establish without further attention.

🌿 Planning your kitchen garden for next year? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month guidance for your growing region.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

17/08/2026

🧅 Harvesting and Storing Onions, Garlic, and Shallots: When They Are Ready and How to Keep Them

August is the main harvest month for onions, garlic, and shallots in Worcestershire.

These are crops that reward patient handling: rushed harvesting and inadequate drying lead to storage rot that can ruin an entire crop. Handled correctly, homegrown onions and garlic harvested in August will keep well into winter, and in good years through to the following spring.

WHEN TO HARVEST 📋

• Onions: harvest when the foliage has fallen over naturally and begun to yellow and dry back. Do not bend the foliage over artificially to speed this process: it does not work and damages the neck, allowing rot to enter the bulb. In a warm August, most main-crop onions are ready from mid-month onwards.
• Garlic: harvest when approximately half the foliage has died back and turned yellow. Garlic left in the ground too long after this point will begin to re-sprout or the cloves will separate inside the skin. In most Worcestershire gardens, garlic planted in October or November is ready from late July through August.
• Shallots: harvest when the foliage has died back completely and the clusters of bulbs have separated naturally from each other. This typically happens two to three weeks after the foliage begins to yellow.

THE DRYING STAGE: THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP 🌞

All three crops must be thoroughly dried before they are stored. Drying removes the excess moisture from the outer skins and the neck of each bulb, creating the papery outer layer that protects the bulb in storage. Bulbs that are stored without adequate drying rot far more rapidly than those that are properly cured.

Spread the harvested bulbs in a single layer in a warm, dry, well-ventilated space: a greenhouse shelf, a spare cold frame, or laid on wire mesh raised off the ground. Three to four weeks of warm, dry weather is ideal. In a typical Worcestershire August, this can be done outdoors on warm days as long as the bulbs are brought under cover if rain threatens. Roots and dry outer skins will shrink and crisp during curing.

STORING THE HARVEST 🏡

• Onions and shallots: once fully dried, store in shallow trays, net bags, or plaited into traditional onion ropes. Store in a cool, dry, frost-free, and well-ventilated space. A cool shed or garage works well. Do not store in a warm kitchen: warmth accelerates softening and re-sprouting.
• Garlic: store in single layers in shallow trays or in hanging bundles. Garlic stores better with its foliage attached: plait or bundle the dried stems and hang in a cool, airy space.
• Check monthly: remove any bulbs that show signs of softening or mould immediately. One rotting bulb releases ethylene gas that accelerates deterioration in neighbouring bulbs.

🌿 Want to know what your kitchen garden needs this month? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month guidance for your growing region.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

We provide comprehensive grounds maintenance services through all seasons including Affordable commercial Grounds Maintenance and Commercial Gardening contracts

04/08/2026

🌽 Sweet Corn in August: How to Tell When It Is Ready and How to Harvest It Correctly

Sweet corn is one of the most rewarding vegetables a Worcestershire kitchen garden can produce, and one of the trickiest to judge for readiness. The difference between an ear harvested at peak ripeness and one left on the plant too long is significant: the sugars in sweet corn convert to starch very rapidly after the peak, and an over-mature cob is noticeably starchier and less sweet than one picked at the right moment.

HOW TO TELL WHEN SWEET CORN IS READY 🌽

The classic test: pull back a small section of the outer husk and pierce a kernel with your thumbnail. If the liquid that runs out is milky, the cob is ready. If it is clear and watery, the cob needs more time. If there is no liquid and the kernel is starchy, it is past its best. The silks (the fine threads that emerge from the top of each cob) turning brown and dry is an additional indicator that harvest time is approaching, but the milk test is more reliable.

THE TIMING IN WORCESTERSHIRE 🏴‍⚑️

In a warm Worcestershire summer, cobs grown from seed in April under cover and planted out in late May typically reach harvest readiness from late July through August. In a cooler or late summer, harvest may extend into September. Each plant produces one main cob and sometimes a smaller secondary one. Harvest the main cob when it passes the milk test, and check the secondary a week or two later.

HOW TO HARVEST 📋

• Twist and pull: grip the cob firmly and twist it downward with a sharp pull. The cob should detach cleanly from the plant.
• Harvest directly into a pan: sweet corn is one of the very few vegetables where the flavour genuinely deteriorates within hours of picking. If you can, have a pan of boiling water ready before you pick. The flavour difference between a cob cooked within 20 minutes of harvest and one left in the refrigerator overnight is noticeable.
• After harvest: the plant can be left in the ground for the secondary cob to mature, then removed and composted. The stems and roots break down slowly; shredding them before composting speeds the process.

IF YOUR COBS HAVE NOT POLLINATED WELL 🌾

Sweet corn is wind-pollinated. Each silk that is pollinated by pollen from another plant produces one kernel. Cobs with patchy or missing kernels have suffered incomplete pollination, usually because the plants were too far apart, or a period of rain or wind occurred during the brief pollination window. Growing sweet corn in a block (at least four plants by four plants) rather than a single row maximises pollination success.

🌿 Want to know what your kitchen garden needs this month? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker gives month-by-month guidance for your growing region.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

28/06/2026

We are looking for casual labour to carry out landscaping works, for a few days this week, possibly longer.
If interested please pm or call Neil on 07834554710

25/06/2026

Another quality installation completed in Coventry.
We used 600 x 900mm porcelain paving paired with matching cladding for a seamless look, finished with 30mm artificial grass for year‑round colour and minimal upkeep. A smart upgrade to any outdoor space.

04/06/2026

🌸 Summer Bedding Plants: How to Plant and Care for Them for Maximum Colour Through July and August

Summer bedding plants are the fastest way to add colour to a garden, and with the right planting and aftercare, a well-chosen scheme continues performing through to the first frosts. The quality of preparation and planting makes a significant difference: plants in poor soil with inadequate aftercare will disappoint, while the same plants given the right conditions will exceed expectations.

CHOOSING YOUR PLANTS 🌺

The most reliable summer bedding plants for the Midlands are those that tolerate our variable summer weather: warm spells, heavy rain, and occasionally cool periods.

• Pelargoniums (bedding geraniums)
• Petunias
• Osteospermums
• Calibrachoa
• Marigolds
• Begonias
• Lobelia
• Verbena

All perform well in Worcestershire conditions. Avoid anything labelled as needing consistently hot weather: in a typical Midlands summer, those plants will perform below expectations.

For shaded positions: begonias, busy lizzies, and fuchsias. For containers in full sun: pelargoniums and petunias with calibrachoa as a trailing element. For impact at a distance: tall salvias, cosmos, and antirrhinums.

PREPARING THE SOIL 📋

Remove all w**ds from the planting area, roots and all. Fork the soil lightly to loosen the top layer. Add a dressing of general granular fertiliser and fork it in. In Worcestershire clay, good soil preparation is especially important: compacted clay drains poorly and warms slowly, both of which set new plants back at planting time.

HOW TO PLANT 🌱

Water the plants at least an hour before planting: wet root balls establish far better than dry ones. Dig each hole to the same depth as the root ball and a little wider. Firm the plant in so the base of the stem sits at the same level as the surrounding soil. Planting too deep invites stem rot; planting too shallow leaves roots exposed. Space plants according to their mature spread, not their current size: this is the most common spacing mistake.

After planting, water each plant thoroughly and apply a 5 to 7 centimetre mulch layer around the plants, keeping a gap around each stem. Mulch holds moisture, suppresses w**ds, and keeps soil temperature stable.

AFTERCARE: WHAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE 🌸

• Deadheading: remove spent flowers regularly. This redirects the plant's energy from seed production into producing more flowers. For petunias, pinch out the growing tips after planting to promote a bushy, floriferous habit.
• Feeding: Start a liquid feed programme two weeks after planting. Use a balanced general feed initially, then switch to a high potash feed from early July. Continue every seven to ten days until September.
• Watering: Most bedding plants in borders need watering only during dry spells once established. Containers need daily checking in warm weather: small containers in full sun can dry out within twenty-four hours.

WORCESTERSHIRE TIMING NOTE 🏴‍⚑️

In Worcestershire, the last frost risk passes by late May. Planting in June means the ground has warmed and plants establish quickly at this point in the season. There is no need to wait further if you are planting in early June: conditions are ideal.

🌿 Not sure what your garden needs this month? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month guidance for your plant type and region.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

We provide comprehensive grounds maintenance services through all seasons including Affordable commercial Grounds Maintenance and Commercial Gardening contracts

01/06/2026

🌿 Feeding Your Garden in June: What to Give Your Plants and When to Apply It

June is the month your garden grows fastest and uses the most resources. Plants in full growth draw heavily on the nutrients in the soil, and many of those nutrients will have been depleted since spring. A well-timed feed in June makes a visible difference within two to three weeks: stronger growth, better flowering, and healthier foliage throughout the rest of the summer.

WHAT PLANTS ACTUALLY NEED 🌱

Plants need three main nutrients:
1. Nitrogen for leafy growth and deep green colour
2. Phosphorus for root development
3. Potassium for flowering, fruiting, and general plant health
A balanced general fertiliser provides all three and suits most garden plants through June. Specialist feeds exist for specific plants, and knowing which to use makes a significant difference to results.

WHAT TO FEED IN JUNE 📋

• Tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, and cucumbers: switch to a high potash liquid feed as soon as the first flowers appear. High potash feeds promote fruit development rather than leafy growth. Feed every seven to ten days throughout June and July.
• Container plants: nutrients leach out of compost with every watering, so containers need feeding every seven to fourteen days throughout the growing season. Container plants without regular feeding produce fewer flowers and lose their colour through summer.
• Roses: a rose-specific granular fertiliser applied now promotes a strong second flush of flowers in July and August.
• Lawns: if the lawn has not been fed this year, apply a granular summer lawn fertiliser now. Use a summer formulation, which is lower in nitrogen and less likely to promote soft growth that scorches in dry conditions.
• Established trees and shrubs: generally, these do not need regular feeding in a well-managed garden. If a plant is performing poorly or showing signs of nutrient deficiency (yellowing leaves, poor growth), a slow-release granular fertiliser worked into the soil around the base will help.

WHEN AND HOW TO APPLY 🕕

Apply granular fertilisers before rain is expected, or water them in immediately after application. Granules sitting on dry soil without moisture do nothing. Liquid feeds work quickly and are best applied to moist soil: applying liquid feed to dry soil risks scorching the roots. Water the plant first, then apply the feed.

Never overfeed. More fertiliser does not produce more growth: it risks scorching the roots and damaging the soil. Follow the instructions on the pack and resist the temptation to apply a larger dose.

ORGANIC OPTIONS 🌿

Seaw**d extract is an excellent liquid feed for most plants and is particularly good for containers and seedlings. It is gentler than synthetic feeds and adds trace elements alongside the main nutrients. Fish, blood, and bone is a versatile granular organic feed suitable for most garden plants. Well-rotted compost applied as a mulch releases nutrients slowly and improves soil structure at the same time.

WORCESTERSHIRE SOIL NOTE 🏴‍⚑️

Our clay soil holds nutrients reasonably well, which means established plants in clay gardens are often less nutrient-deficient than those in sandy soils. However, containers, raised beds, and recently planted areas benefit from regular feeding throughout June. If your soil has not had organic matter added for several years, a dressing of well-rotted compost applied as mulch in June improves both nutrient levels and moisture retention.

🌿 Want personalised guidance on what your garden needs this month? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month advice for your soil type and region.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

We provide comprehensive grounds maintenance services through all seasons including Affordable commercial Grounds Maintenance and Commercial Gardening contracts

21/05/2026

✂️ Pruning Spring-Flowering Shrubs: Why the End of May Is Exactly the Right Time

One of the most common pruning mistakes in the garden is cutting spring-flowering shrubs at the wrong time of year. Many gardeners prune everything in autumn or early spring, which removes the flower buds and results in a season without flowers. The rule for spring-flowering shrubs is straightforward: prune immediately after flowering, not before.

WHY TIMING MATTERS SO MUCH 🗓️

Spring-flowering shrubs produce their flower buds on wood that grew the previous summer. If you prune in autumn or early spring, you cut off next year's flowers before they have a chance to open. If you prune immediately after flowering, the shrub has the whole summer ahead of it to produce new growth, which will carry next year's flower buds.

Late May is when most spring-flowering shrubs finish their displays. Prune them now, and you are working in exactly the right window.

SHRUBS TO PRUNE NOW 🌿

Forsythia
One of the most commonly mistreated shrubs in British gardens. Left unpruned, forsythia becomes a large, untidy tangle that flowers only at the tips. Pruned correctly after flowering, it becomes a manageable, floriferous shrub year after year. Remove one-third of the oldest stems at the base each year. Shorten remaining stems by a third to a half. The result is a well-shaped plant with a strong framework that flowers reliably from a young age.

Ribes (flowering currant)
Responds well to hard pruning after flowering. Remove up to a third of the oldest wood at the base. This encourages vigorous young growth that will carry next year's flowers. Ribes tolerates hard pruning well and benefits from being kept compact rather than allowed to become leggy.

Philadelphus (mock orange)
Flowers on last year's wood. Prune immediately after the flowers fade, usually in late June or July in Worcestershire. Remove the flowered stems back to strong new growth lower on the plant. Take out a proportion of the oldest wood at the base each year to maintain vigour.

Weigela
Prune after flowering by cutting back the stems that have just flowered to strong new growth. Remove one-third of the oldest wood at the base. Weigela produces new stems vigorously and benefits from regular thinning to prevent it from becoming a congested, leggy shrub.

Deutzia
As with philadelphus, prune immediately after flowering. Cut flowered stems back to young growth lower down. Remove a proportion of the oldest stems at the base to keep the shrub open and productive.

Lilac (Syringa)
Deadhead spent flower trusses now, cutting back to the first pair of leaves below the flower. Do not cut deeply into old wood on mature lilac, as it responds poorly to deep cuts. The focus is on removing the spent flower heads to direct energy into new growth rather than seed production. Only cut hard if the plant has become very large and needs renovation.

THE GENERAL PRINCIPLE FOR ALL OF THESE 📋

• Cut out one-third of the oldest, woodiest stems at the base each year. This keeps the shrub young and productive.
• Cut back the stems that have flowered to strong new growth lower down on the plant.
• Remove any crossing, damaged, or dead wood at the same time.
• Use clean, sharp secateurs. Blunt tools crush stems rather than cutting cleanly, which invites disease.
• Compost the pruning’s or shred them for mulch if your compost heap can handle woody material.

SHRUBS YOU SHOULD NOT PRUNE YET 🚫

Do not prune summer-flowering shrubs now.
Buddleia, roses, lavender, and hydrangeas (depending on variety) flower on the current year's growth. Prune them in late winter or early spring, not now. Pruning them in May removes the buds that are about to give you summer flowers.

WORCESTERSHIRE TIMING NOTE 🏴‍⚑️

Our relatively mild but damp Midlands climate means spring-flowering shrubs tend to finish their display slightly later than in southern counties. The final week of May into early June is the ideal pruning window for most of these shrubs in Worcestershire. Act as the flowers fade rather than waiting until they look fully spent.

🌿 Want to know what else needs attention in the garden this month? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month guidance for your garden type.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire

20/05/2026

💧 How to Water Your Garden Correctly: The Technique That Makes the Biggest Difference

Most gardeners water too often and too shallowly. The result is a garden full of plants with shallow root systems that depend on surface moisture, are quickly stressed by any dry spell, and are weaker overall than they should be. One simple technique change fixes most of this.

THE CORE PRINCIPLE: DEEP AND INFREQUENT 🌍

Plants develop their root systems in response to the availability of water. Water the surface lightly every day, and the roots stay near the surface to access it. Water deeply once or twice a week, and the roots follow the moisture down into the soil, developing a stronger, more drought-resilient system. Deep, infrequent watering produces better plants than frequent, shallow watering.

HOW MUCH IS DEEP ENOUGH? 📏

For most garden plants, you want water to pe*****te at least 20 to 30cm into the soil. A quick test: water as normal, then push a finger or thin cane into the soil. If it is dry below 5cm, you have not watered deeply enough. Increase the duration or volume until moisture reaches further down.

WHEN TO WATER 🕕

• Early morning is ideal. Water soaks into the soil before the day heats up. Leaves dry quickly in the morning sun, reducing the risk of disease.
• Evening is the second-best option. Cooler temperatures mean less evaporation. The main risk is leaves staying wet overnight, which encourages fungal problems. Water at the soil level and avoid wetting foliage.
• Midday is the least efficient but not harmful. The old belief that water droplets on leaves act as magnifying glasses, scorching plants, is a myth. The real issue is simply that a significant proportion of the water evaporates before reaching the roots.

WHERE TO WATER 🌱

Water at the base of the plant, not over the foliage. The roots absorb water, not the leaves. Overhead watering of tomatoes, squash, and most vegetables encourages disease by keeping foliage wet. Direct the watering can spout or hose to the base of the stem and hold it there long enough for the water to soak in rather than run off.

WATERING SPECIFIC PLANTS CORRECTLY 🍅

• Tomatoes: consistent watering is critical. Irregular watering causes blossom end rot and fruit splitting. Water deeply every 2 to 3 days in warm weather. Keep moisture levels even.
• Courgettes and squash: large, thirsty plants. Water at the base directly. A buried pipe or upturned bottle at planting time delivers water straight to the root zone very effectively.
• Newly planted shrubs and trees: critical to establish in their first summer. Water deeply once or twice a week, not a little every day. Give each plant a full watering can or more each time.
• Container plants: dry out much faster than border plants. Check daily in warm weather. Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes.
• Lawns: generally, do not need watering unless newly seeded. Established grass goes dormant in drought but recovers. Save water for plants that need it.

THE MULCH CONNECTION 🌿

A 5-7cm layer of mulch around plants dramatically reduces how often you need to water. Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil by reducing evaporation from the soil surface. Apply it now, in late May, before the summer heat arrives. Well-rotted compost, bark chippings, or wood chips all work well. Leave a gap around plant stems to prevent rot.

WORCESTERSHIRE CLAY NOTE 🏴‍⚑️

Our clay soil holds moisture well, which is an advantage in dry spells. However, clay can also compact on the surface, and water can run off rather than soak in if applied too quickly. Water slowly, in stages if needed, to allow time for absorption. Adding organic matter regularly improves the structure and water retention of clay soil over time.

🌿 Not sure what your garden needs this month? Our free Seasonal Garden Health Checker at 4sgs.co.uk gives month-by-month guidance for your soil type and region.

📞 01527 870653 🌐 www.4sgs.co.uk 📍 Droitwich, Worcestershire