What are the opening hours?

Monday 8:30am - 5:30pm Tuesday 8:30am - 5:30pm Wednesday 8:30am - 5:30pm Thursday 8:30am - 5:30pm Friday 8:30am - 5:30pm Saturday 10am - 5pm

LMO Landscaping Ltd.- Swift Current, SK

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Swift Current, SK
LMO Landscaping Ltd.- Swift Current, SK

Innovative solutions for the DIY-er who needs supplies and a plan of attack, and also for the client who wants design, supply & install for their property.

CALL TODAY TO SCHEDULE YOUR FREE ESTIMATE! 306-773-1764

**Snow Removal & Full Service Commercial and Residential Landscaping Solutions: Supply and Install**

Irrigation and Sprinkler Systems (Hunter OR Rainbird)
Plants, Trees, Shrubs
Sod, Hydroseeding, and Artificial Turf
Snow Removal- Haul Away, Sanding, Salting
Paving Stones
Versalok Bricks
Decor Rock
Aggregate
Topsoil
Gravel
Mulch (Rubber or Bark)
Landscape Fabric Barrier
Levelling, Grading, Prep

06/23/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!

A couple tips for laying sod:
1. Start by clearing the area of all existing grass, rocks, w**ds and debris.
2.Till and loosen the ground to a depth of 6-8 inches.
3. Amend and grade your area by adding 2-3 inches of top soil.
4. Settle the soil by lightly watering it 24-48 hours before you lay the sod.

LAYING SOD:
1. Start laying along the straight edge of your yard, for example along a fence line, walk way or driveway.
2. Lay the sod in a brick pattern to prevent roll ends from staggering. Make sure you push the edges of the sod tightly into each other, so that no gaps are visible.

WATERING AND CARE
1. Roll the lawn with a water-filled lawn roller in a cross-cross grid pattern. This pushes the roots into the soil and eliminates air pockets that cause grass to dry out.
2. Soak the sod within 30 minutes of installation for about 40-60 minutes.
3. Add fertilizer to help the sod develop strong root systems.
Continue fertilizing and watering!

06/22/2026

LANDCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!

As we move into the warmer summer months, we'd like to share an important lawn care recommendation.

For cool-season grasses, we recommend maintaining a mowing height of 3 to 5 inches during the heat of summer. Taller grass provides several benefits:

• Helps shade the soil and retain moisture
• Encourages deeper root growth
• Reduces heat stress on the lawn
• Helps prevent w**ds from establishing
• Keeps your lawn greener and healthier during hot, dry weather

While a shorter lawn may look tidy immediately after mowing, it often struggles more during periods of heat and drought. By allowing the grass to remain slightly taller, we're helping protect your lawn and promote long-term health throughout the summer season. See less

06/19/2026

🌿🌿Landscaping Tip of the Day🌿🌿

9 Popular Garden Edging Ideas And How To Choose The Right One For Your Yard

Garden edging does more than make beds look neat. It defines space, reduces maintenance, and makes mowing easier when done right. Each edging style has strengths depending on how formal you want the space to feel, how much upkeep you want, and what tools you use to maintain your yard.

Clean spade cut mulch edge
This is the simplest and most common edging. A sharp spade is used to create a crisp trench between lawn and mulch. It works best for curved beds and natural garden styles. Installation is quick and inexpensive, but it does require refreshing once or twice a season as grass creeps back in. It is mower friendly and easy to adjust as beds evolve.

Plastic landscape edging
Plastic edging is usually hidden just below mulch and soil. It creates a physical barrier that keeps mulch in place and grass out. Installation is straightforward and flexible for curves. Maintenance is low once installed, though edging may need resetting over time. It works well where clean lines are needed without visual distraction and is easy to mow against when properly installed.

Brick edging
Brick adds weight and permanence to garden beds while still allowing gentle curves. Bricks can be set flat or on edge depending on the look you want. Installation takes more time and careful leveling, but maintenance is minimal once set. This option is durable and easy to mow against, making it a good choice for long term beds.

Natural stone edging
Stone edging feels organic and blends well with cottage and woodland gardens. Stones are set individually, following natural curves. Installation requires patience to fit stones securely, but the result feels timeless. Maintenance is minimal and mowing is easy if stones are set flush with the lawn.

Metal edging
Metal edging creates clean lines while still allowing curves. It is ideal for modern or minimalist gardens and works especially well with grasses and structured plantings. Installation requires careful anchoring but holds its shape for years. Maintenance is very low and mowing is simple because the edge stays sharp and consistent.

Paver block edging
Paver blocks used as edging offer a more substantial look than bricks and are often thicker. They are installed individually in a curved line, not connected to patios or walkways. Installation takes time to level properly, but once set they are extremely durable. They handle mower contact well and are a good option for defining larger beds.

Concrete edging
Concrete edging provides a smooth, continuous border and works well in flowing shapes. It is one of the most permanent options and often installed professionally, though forms can be done by hand. Maintenance is minimal and mowing is effortless because the edge stays fixed. This works best where bed layouts will not change.

Wood edging
Wood edging adds warmth and works well in informal or rustic gardens. Boards or timbers can be installed in gentle curves using shorter segments. Installation is moderate and maintenance depends on the wood used. Expect eventual replacement as wood weathers. Mowing is easy when boards sit flush with the lawn.

Gravel trench edging
Gravel edging creates a visual break between lawn and bed while helping with drainage. A shallow trench is lined and filled with stone, often paired with hidden edging to keep it contained. Installation takes planning but maintenance is low once established. It is mower friendly and works especially well in modern or natural landscapes.

How to choose the right edging
If you want flexibility and low cost, a spade cut edge or plastic edging works well. For durability and structure, brick, stone, metal, or pavers are better long term choices. If you prefer a softer, natural look, stone, wood, or gravel blends easily into planting beds. Consider how often you mow, whether you want to change bed shapes later, and how permanent you want the edge to be.
Good edging does not just frame plants. It makes the entire garden easier to maintain and more enjoyable to look at season after season. See less

06/18/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY

If you’ve ever thought, “I’ll just throw a little extra fertilizer down to help it along…” Believe us, you’re not alone.

It’s one of the most common lawn care mistakes we see.
Too much fertilizer can actually burn your lawn, leaving behind those ugly brown patches that look like drought damage. That’s because excess nutrients (especially salts) pull moisture away from the roots instead of feeding them.

But here’s the frustrating part: doing too little isn’t any better.

That’s why smaller, properly timed applications that your lawn can actually absorb are key.
Getting that balance right is what separates a lawn that struggles from one that actually thrives. See less

06/17/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!

💦🌜Nighttime watering might feel like the right move… but it can actually hurt your lawn. 💦🌛

When grass stays wet overnight, it creates the perfect environment for lawn diseases like brown patch and dollar spot to develop. Instead of helping your lawn recover, you may be setting it up for stress and decline.

🌱 Better option: Water early in the morning.
This gives moisture time to soak in and allows grass to dry the day—helping reduce disease pressure and improve root health.
Small timing change = big difference for lawn health. 👍

06/16/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!

⛈️⛈️It's raining every afternoon — so why is your irrigation system still running on the same schedule?

This is the most common mistake we see during rainy season. Homeowners set their system in the dry season and never adjust it — and the lawn pays the price.

Here's what over-watering actually does to your yard:

💧 Wasted water — you're paying for water your lawn doesn't need and your utility bill shows it 🌱 Oversaturated soil — roots can't breathe in waterlogged ground, leading to root rot and thin grass 🍄 Fungus risk — warm, wet conditions are the perfect recipe for lawn fungus that spreads fast and is expensive to treat
The fix is simple — adjust your controller for the season. Reduce run times, skip days, and make sure your rain sensor is actually working so the system shuts off automatically when it storms.
Not sure how to adjust your settings? That's exactly what we're here for. One call and we'll dial everything in for rainy season so your lawn stays healthy without wasting a drop.

06/12/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!

If your lawn is thin, patchy, or just not living up to what you want…
you don’t need to start over.
You just need to understand how grass actually establishes—and why most overseeding attempts fail.
Because simply throwing seed down rarely works.
The real goal is seed-to-soil contact.
Successful germination depends on seeds being in direct contact with the soil surface, along with consistent moisture and proper timing. If seeds sit on top of thatch or existing grass blades, they often dry out before they ever get a chance to sprout.
So here’s how to do it the right way.

1. Mow Low and Clear the Surface
Start by mowing your lawn shorter than usual. This reduces competition and allows more light to reach the soil. Removing excess clippings and debris is just as important—anything that blocks contact between seed and soil reduces success.

2. Loosen the Top Layer
You don’t need to till your lawn, but you do need to create some disruption. Light raking or core aeration helps open up the surface so seeds can settle in. The Penn State Extension emphasizes that even minor soil exposure dramatically improves germination rates.

3. Apply the Right Amount of Seed
More isn’t better here.
Overseeding too heavily creates overcrowding, where young seedlings compete for water, light, and nutrients. Follow recommended rates for your grass type to ensure even, healthy establishment.

4. Press It In
After spreading seed, lightly rake again or use a lawn roller to press seeds into the soil. This step is often skipped—but it’s one of the most important.
You’re not burying the seed… just anchoring it.

5. Keep It Consistently Moist
This is where most people lose the battle.
Grass seed needs consistent surface moisture to germinate. That means light, frequent watering—sometimes once or twice a day—until seedlings are established. Letting the soil dry out, even briefly, can stop germination entirely.

6. Time It Right
Cool-season grasses perform best when overseeded in early fall or spring. Soil temperatures and natural rainfall patterns during these times create ideal conditions for establishment.

Now here’s the bigger picture.

A thick lawn isn’t just about aesthetics.
Dense turf naturally suppresses w**ds by limiting space, light, and resources available for w**d seeds to establish. So when you thicken your lawn, you’re also reducing future problems.
And that’s really the shift to make:
You’re not just “adding grass.”
You’re improving the system.
Because when you focus on contact, moisture, and timing…
you stop relying on luck—and start getting consistent, reliable results.
That’s how thin lawns become thick ones.

06/11/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!

The mulch matters as much as the soil underneath it.
Each material breathes, breaks down, and holds moisture differently. Match the mulch to the plant's root zone and most problems with w**ds, rot, and moisture swing solve themselves before they start.

🌿 Four mulches matched to the plants that need them:
- Wood chips — best for fruit trees, berry bushes, and shrubs. The chunky pieces break down slowly and encourage the fungal activity that woody roots depend on. They mimic a forest floor, which is exactly the environment these plants evolved in. Replace every couple of years as they decompose.

- Straw — suits tomatoes, peppers, and melons. Light enough to reflect sunlight and keep roots cool in summer heat. It also creates a splash barrier that stops soil from bouncing onto lower leaves during rain — which is how many fungal blights start. Easy to pull back when you need to fertilize or warm the soil.

- Pine needles — belong under strawberries, azaleas, and garlic. The needles interlock like a woven mat instead of washing away in downpours. They drain fast and create a clean, dry surface that keeps ripening fruit and curing bulbs from sitting in moisture.

- Shredded leaves — ideal for hostas, ferns, and heuchera. The crushed foliage breaks down quickly and builds the spongy, moisture-holding soil that shade plants thrive in. Free every fall — bag your neighbor's leaves if you don't have enough.

🌱 The rules that prevent most mulching problems:
- Keep all mulch pulled back from plant stems — piling it against the base holds moisture against the crown and causes rot. A small gap is enough
- Stay around two to three inches deep — much thicker and rain can't reach the roots underneath
- Avoid thick layers of fresh grass clippings — they mat into a dense barrier that blocks air and water. Dry them first or mix with coarser material
- One material per bed, matched to what's growing there. The bed under the oak doesn't need the same mulch as the tomato row
One mulch matched to one bed. That's the difference between feeding your soil and working against it 🌿

06/10/2026

Landscaping Tip of the Day!

🌞🌞 Hot Temperatures Are Here but Your Lawn Still Has a Game Plan🌞🌞

The heat is on, and your lawn feels it too. High temperatures can bring stress, browning, and slower growth but this is also the time where consistent care really makes a difference.
Even in the toughest summer stretch, small things go a long way:
💧 Water deeply and early in the morning when possible
🌱 Avoid cutting grass too short during heat waves
🌤️ Let your lawn rest during extreme stress periods
🚫 Don’t panic over temporary color changes, many lawns bounce back quickly with proper care.

Summer heat isn’t about perfection; it’s about patience and consistency. Lawns are resilient, and with the right support, they can handle even the hottest days of the season.
Stay consistent, stay patient, and your lawn will thank you when the temps start to drop. 💪🌿

06/09/2026

LANDSCAPING TIP OF THE DAY!!

1. Creeping Thyme — forms a dense, fragrant groundcover.
2. Ajuga (Buglew**d) — spreads quickly and chokes out w**ds.
3. Sedum (Stonecrop) — low-growing and covers soil tightly.
4. Clover — fills gaps and improves soil while crowding w**ds.
5. Periwinkle (Vinca minor) — evergreen groundcover that smothers w**ds.
6. Pachysandra — great for shady spots, forms a thick mat.
7. Lamb’s Ear — soft, silvery leaves spread across soil.
8. Sweet Woodruff — delicate but tough in shade gardens.
9. Hosta — broad leaves block sunlight, reducing w**d growth.

Address

152 4th Avenue NW
Swift Current, SK
S9H0T6

Opening Hours

Monday	8:30am - 5:30pm
Tuesday	8:30am - 5:30pm
Wednesday	8:30am - 5:30pm
Thursday	8:30am - 5:30pm
Friday	8:30am - 5:30pm
Saturday	10am - 5pm

Telephone

+13067731764

Website

http://www.lmolandscaping.com/

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