Treecologic

Treecologic Tree pruning, tree removal, and other tree care services in Fredericton, NB. Get your free tree care

Contact us now - http://goo.gl/Sv2FNe - for a free quote on the best tree service in Fredericton, NB, including tree pruning, tree removal, and more. When you choose Treecologic, you’ll be trusting your home and property to the care of professionals. Our quality approach to tree and shrub care is backed with a strong education and adamant desire to gain more knowledge about the technology and scie

nce of urban forests. We use environmentally friendly methods and work with a positive, proactive attitude to ensure your satisfaction. Most importantly, we’ll communicate with you every step of the way - before, during and after the sale.

Blooming flowers are bound to attract a bumblebee like this brown-belted bumblebee (Bombus griseocollis), pausing to sam...
05/29/2026

Blooming flowers are bound to attract a bumblebee like this brown-belted bumblebee (Bombus griseocollis), pausing to sample the pollen and nectar of this fragrant wild sage. Occasional sightings are reported from southern New Brunswick, but this bee doesn't have much presence in the Maritimes; conversely it is widespread further West (this picture is from Ontario) and South, being found in all but the extreme South of North America. Unlike many bumblebees, populations of brown-belted bumblebees are holding stable in the face of human-made pressures, and are even increasing in some areas, as they thrive in urban forest. They feed on a wide range of pollen sources, Though flowers that offer a sturdy platform or a profusion of nectar sources are preferred. In another difference to most bumblebees, males (drones) have a function beyond attending their Queen, and help incubate pupae in the nest while the workers forage.

In sharp contrast are the "cuckoo" bumblebees, which are solitary and don't form colonies. The adults look like colonial bumblebees and behave a lot like them too: visiting flowers for nectar, boasting black and yellow warning colours, droning along busily on summer days. But life's tough for a single bee in a harsh world, so what does a prospective cuckoo bumblebee parent do? The clue comes from their name - like the namesake bird, cuckoo bumblebees lay their eggs in the nests of other bees, and let the hapless colony raise their offspring. They are obligate parasites, which means if there aren't any colonies around, they can't raise their own young. For this reason they are declining at greater rates than social bumblebees.

From attentive fathers to dead-beat parents, bumblebees use a variety of life strategies to maintain their populations, though the majority of species are in decline in North America. Reducing tilling in fields and eliminating or reducing pesticide use, especially neonicotinoids, are the best ways to help bees at the landscape level, as well as protecting habitat where we can. In the urban forest, we can still reduce pesticide use (avoid spraying plants when they are in flower), but the best way to help bumblebees and other pollinators at risk is to provide food. Flowering native perennials and shrubs offer the best food resources for them, some of their favourites are blueberries, ninebark, bee-balm, black-eyed Susans , and New England asters - all of these have different bloom times, so you provide a continuous supply of blossoms for the bees, and since pollinated flowers produce fruit, you'll have some tasty blueberries as your reward for being a good bee steward!

Friday Fact Corner: Spring is here but it seems like not every tree got the memo - this staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) is...
05/22/2026

Friday Fact Corner: Spring is here but it seems like not every tree got the memo - this staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) is only just starting to leaf out, while the big sugar maple behind it is weeks ahead. Spring doesn't happen all at once, with different trees and shrubs taking different approaches to start their season. Some plants like magnolias, peaches, and serviceberries put out flowers ahead of their leaves, hoping to snag the spring pollinators' attentions before their later-flowering neighbours. Wind-pollinated plants like birches, elms, and soft maples get their flowering out of the way early and start on their leaves so as to make the most of a brief growing season, especially at the northern edge of their range. Plants with a later leaf out though tend to ascribe to one of two different strategies.

The first reason plants may delay leafing out is avoid losing leaves to the frost or first hungry wave of defoliating insects - you won't find any loopers or spanworms on this sumac, and it's happy to let the maple deal with them! It's theorized that this can be a learned response over time, with populations of oaks that come under attack by spongy moth opting to keep their buds closed later and later in the year, if the previous year's feeding damage was severe. They present a less favourable food source for the caterpillars, who are obligated to move on and look elsewhere for an easy meal. Late frosts also encourage certain plants to delay bud-break, since they don't want to keep wasting resources on new leaves after the first set get damaged by starting things early.

The second reason is stress - pushing out leaves takes a lot of energy and since they need to photosynthesize with leaves to get it, the energy has to come from the starches in the roots it stored last summer. Plants under stress, whether environmental, from pests and diseases, or from compartmentalizing injuries, can't sequester as much starch for this task, so they may have a poor leaf-out at spring, and may seem to "wake up" more slowly. Dumping a load of fertilizer or "plant food" on them may actually make things worse by shocking the roots, so proceed carefully, like caring for any friend who isn't feeling well. Making sure plants go into fall in good shape will help them have a strong leaf-out, but if you're worried about a tree or shrub that seems to be struggling, give us a call!

Friday Fact Corner: A show-stopping saucer magnolia (Magnolia x soulangeana) reminds you every spring why you planted it...
05/15/2026

Friday Fact Corner: A show-stopping saucer magnolia (Magnolia x soulangeana) reminds you every spring why you planted it. These spring-blooming shrubs seem like something out of a tropical paradise, but there are hardy varieties bred for tough places outside of the genus' typical range - and it's plain to see why! Saucer magnolias are a hybrid of the lilytree (M. denudata) and the Mulan magnolia (M. liliiflora) both from China, bred for their robust blossoms and cold tolerance. They are mostly pink-flowering though some varieties are white or purple-flowering instead. At maturity they are typically 10-15 ft tall and as wide or wider, though there are both taller and more compact varieties (well over 100 in total) to suit nearly any sized planting site.

Magnolias are one of our oldest extant flowering plants, getting their start in the Cretaceous about 95 million years ago. Though it's hard to believe, these plants are older than bees and wasps and relied on beetles for pollination instead, which may explain why their petals are so robust compared to other, more recent flowering plants. They have a natural range mainly concentrated in Asia with a disjunct population in South and Central America, with a few native North American species. While most flowering magnolias available at garden centers and nurseries are Asian hybrid species, both the cucumber tree (an actual magnolia) and tuliptree (a closely-related genus) are great options on the right site for a native alternative.

Taking care of a magnolia starts with making sure it gets planted in the right spot - a site with full sun, protection from the North wind, good airflow, moist but well-drained soil, and protection from drought. They can develop a patchy, thin crown with too much shade and won't flower particularly well, and are prone to mildew and leafspot diseases with restricted airflow, while the cold winter winds can cause branch dieback. They often have issues with magnolia scale once they become stressed, and this leads to black discolouration of the bark from sooty mold as well as stunted growth and general crown thinning. Scale aside they've mostly outlived their insect problems, so stop and admire these hardy survivors while you're out enjoying your long weekend (happy Victoria Day!)

Friday Fact Corner: The spring wildflower bloom is on, and sitting like a precious jewel among brown leaves and green sh...
05/08/2026

Friday Fact Corner: The spring wildflower bloom is on, and sitting like a precious jewel among brown leaves and green shoots is a red trillium (Trillium erectum). These ephemeral wildflowers belong to the bunchflower family, and are closely related to lilies. Like all trilliums, the plant is composed of a 3-leafed whorl ending in a 3-petal flower. The pale yellow stamens surround a burgundy o***y of 3 fused stigmas, making for a showy, attractive blossom that is easy to identify. Trilliums don't bloom for very long, and those that are successfully pollinated with into a single dark, small, berry-like capsule. This capsule is very attractive to certain species of ants, which carry it into their nests among tree roots. they eat the flesh and leave the seed alone, which eventually sprouts into a new trillium.

Red trilliums are native to New Brunswick and much of eastern North America besides, and they aren't the only species you might find here. Large white trilliums may be the provincial flower of Ontario, but they can be found in New Brunswick in small numbers. These plants prefer calcareous soil (soil derived from limestone) and tolerate less shade when they flower. You're more likely to encounter a white-flowered trillium with its flower facing down around here, and if you do then you've found the aptly-named nodding trillium. these have a flowering habit similar to Canada mayapple, where the open flower sits below the foliage. Interestingly, this is the most northerly species of trillium, being found as far north as Newfoundland and Hudson's Bay.

Perhaps the loveliest trillium (in this author's opinion - beauty is in the eye of the beholder after all) is one you can find in New Brunswick if you have keen eyes and luck on your side - the painted trillium. Its primarily white petals have a triangular center of red or pink that trails like a brushstroke to the end of each petal, which itself is crinkled or wavy at the ends. The red line at the meeting point of the petals seems to form a triangle of pink or red around the stamens and o***y, that sit in the middle like a yellow starburst. It can be found in strongly-acidic, humus-rich sites where the forest canopy isn't closed year-round - if you're out and about in the woods and find a forest canopy of tall white pines and red maples, have a look at the ground and you might stumble on a treasure! But this is one flower you shouldn't pick for Mother's Day (this Sunday - Happy Mothers Day!) - leave the trilliums where you find them please!

Friday Fact Corner: After a slow start to spring, the occasional day of nice weather makes us appreciate it all the more...
05/01/2026

Friday Fact Corner: After a slow start to spring, the occasional day of nice weather makes us appreciate it all the more. And what finer way to be out in the spring air, than to fire up the woodchipper? These proud (and loud!) machines have been part of our industry since 1884, and were developed in Germany by Peter Jensen, where they were originally used to grind wastage from woodworking into chips for hog-fuel boilers - this application is still used today. The first chippers were disc chippers, with drum chippers like this Vermeer coming into the scene in the 1920's. Whether top-loading or side-feeding, wheeled, tracked, tow-behind or stationary, our jobs are a lot messier without woodchippers.

Most commercial woodchippers are drum chippers like this one, and operate with a bladed drum spun parallel to the motor, at the end of a chute. The feed intake for the drum is regulated by a hydraulic feed wheel positioned in front of it - this keeps the chipper from feeding material too fast and getting backed up, and is much safer for the operator. These are largely the industry standard, since most portable disc chippers handle smaller diameters of material poorly and get bogged down a bit more easily. They produce finer chips of more uniform size, and so are often used for making wood chips for particleboard production, rather than chipping trees at roadside.

Chippers need maintenance like every piece of equipment, and having a daily check-log for maintenance is a good idea. Some things need to be checked every morning (grease points, brake and light connections, start-up and stop mechanisms, emergency stops, feed wheel speed, tire pressure, and chip quality). Periodically (at least once a week) you should check the teeth on the drum, sharpening any that are dull and replacing any that are pitted or damaged. Check the intake and exhaust filters at this time too, to make sure it's drawing in air properly and not overheating, and check the belts for signs of wear - better to find that out before you leave for the day than after there's an issue on-site. And a wipe-down after a dirty job keeps rust from building up, and our equipment looking sharp and professional.

Friday Fact Corner: Spring is here, outdoor work is beginning in earnest on worksites across the country, and things are...
04/24/2026

Friday Fact Corner: Spring is here, outdoor work is beginning in earnest on worksites across the country, and things are starting to get busy. It's a familiar situation for us every spring, but familiar doesn't mean routine. The leading cause of accidents on worksites, regardless of the type of work going on, is complacency - a missed gear check, a vehicle backed up without a spotter, a site hazard unidentified until it's too late - all of these can lead to equipment, property, or people being hurt or damaged, sometimes very seriously. The sting of it of course is that these accidents are preventable, so although the spring busy season means we need to work efficiently, we must also work safely.

Site inspections (like the one this person is carrying out) can reveal hidden hazards we might not notice as we get set up. These can be identified during a consultation, or examined once you arrive on site, but two things should occur before work commences: the hazards should be documented, and they should be shared with the crew. It's one thing if you made notes about a big hole hidden by grass when you quoted the job a week ago, but if those notes stayed in an office or on a notepad document on your phone, it doesn't do much good to the crew arriving to site. A tailboard inspection is a very efficient way to make sure the whole crew is up to speed on the job's particulars and the site hazards, and serves as site documentation - win-win!

In addition to making sure we're safe (wearing our helmets, eye and ear protection, chaps or chainsaw pants, and steel-toe workboots) we can make ourselves and our site hazards visible - what is readily apparent on the ground may be very hard to make out 60 feet up a tree. We can cone off or flag ground hazards like holes, rocks, ornaments, cable or power boxes, structures, fences, water features, and wellheads. In difficult terrain we can flag out a drop zone and/or drag path instead. When visibility is poor, or we are working at roadside, we can wear high-visibility clothing to ensure everyone on-site can be seen from a distance. And the most important part: we make sure we do each gear check, each equipment tiedown or hitch check, each site tailboard every site, every time, and always back a truck up with a spotter. Consistency with safety is never time wasted!

Friday Fact Corner: This tiny Norway maple (Acer platanoides) is making its bid for light as spring warms up, though it'...
04/17/2026

Friday Fact Corner: This tiny Norway maple (Acer platanoides) is making its bid for light as spring warms up, though it's largely down to the seed capsule and the parent tree being nearby that an ID can be made confidently. These fleshy leaves that look like bunny ears are called cotyledons, and are the embryonic leaves common to flowering plants (angiosperms). Whether a plant has 1, 2, or 0 cotyledons as it emerges from seed is a key ID feature: 1 cotyledon makes it a monocot (palms, sedges, and grasses), 2 makes it a dicot (most broadleaf trees, shrubs, and herbs), and 0 identifies it as an orchid or dodder. Seedlings of conifers (gymnosperms) also have cotyledons, but the number is much more variable, and they tend to look like tiny palm trees or clubmosses. Most trees start out looking like this Norway maple though, so figuring out what it is, without a seed nearby, while in the field is pretty tough.

When it comes to removing volunteer trees, this is a good time to do it since the roots haven't developed yet and plucking them from the soil is simple. If they're invasive species like Norway maples, they can get plucked and composted, along with the rest of the spring weeds starting to poke through the leaf litter. If instead you find a tree of a species you'd like to try to grow, you can leave it where it is, or transplant it into a pot and help it along. We only recommend doing so in the urban environment - leave wild, native seedlings where they are please! Rearing plants from seedlings can be a fun and rewarding experience, though it is one that requires some research to make sure you're making the best choices for your tiny trees. Light requirements, watering regimes, and soil pH differ across species, and little trees can be sensitive. And if they die off, try not to be discouraged - most trees in the wild don't make it either!

When you're growing plants from seed, this is the stage at which you may begin to notice problems. The most serious disease that affects seedlings is called "damping off", caused by water molds in the genus Pythium. These are spread both by contaminated water, and by fungus gnats (those tiny black flies that you often see in indoor and garden center plants), and it's much better to prevent them than have to treat them. For seedlings, humidity control is important, and although it's scary, you have to let the soil dry out a bit between watering. Use distilled water if possible, and make sure you clean your growing surfaces (benches, windowsill, old pots) with isopropyl alcohol or peroxide to keep them sterile. Outside, there are a whole host of soil and litter-dwelling beetles that love cotyledons, especially black flea beetles. There are some Domestic-grade treatments for these (look for products like Grub Halt or Beetle JUS) and yellow sticky cards can also be helpful, though these should be replaced often.

Friday Fact Corner: This honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) isn't rocking a piercing in order to make its debut on the ...
04/10/2026

Friday Fact Corner: This honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) isn't rocking a piercing in order to make its debut on the club scene - this tree tag has a numeric designation on it for inventory purposes. Tags are usually placed at eye level and are made of aluminum, or less often bronze. You can mainly find inventoried trees in arboretums or special management areas, though the UNB campus lawn also has inventoried trees - the lower the number, the older the tree. Tree inventories are very useful for land managers when it comes to making decisions about tree work planning, aforestation and reforestation projects, pest and disease management, and examining the health and diversity of the urban forest. These decisions are only as informed as your data is good though, so high-quality data capture is a must.

Typically tree tags don't contain much information themselves, just a numeric designation. This is especially the case for tagged trees in large management areas and those tagged for an Environmental Impact Study (EIS). The data collected at the time of tagging varies, based on the goal of the study, but almost always includes the tree's location (on a map or GIS), species, its DBH (diameter at breast height - usually 1.4 m from the ground), and whether the tree is alive or dead. For trees with multiple stems, the largest stem is usually measured for DBH, though a note may be made to clarify how many stems the tree has. All of this information is recorded into a database to make the inventory, and it is updated periodically, or when major changes are made to the project or to the land use. Newer tags may have a QR code that links to the database so that edits can be made in real-time, and some databases are public so you can learn about the tree on the go!

What should you do if you're removing a tree with a tag? If this removal is part of storm work or a municipal removal contract, keep the tag and return it to the municipal office - they may re-use it or keep it for their own record-keeping. If the tag has no numbers or QR code on it, it may not be part of an inventory but was marked for a different purpose. Some municipalities mark and spray ash trees suitable for TreeAzin injection so city crews don't remove them, and so the IPM crew can find them later when driving around. Tags on private property are often mysterious, unless the current owner tagged them (or learned that the previous owner had done so), they are likely left over from an old EIS on the land before housing was built, or if a nearby easement was amended in some way. In either case, if the tag and screw can't be removed, make sure the piece doesn't go in the chipper - there's no mystery as to what pieces of metal do to those blades!

Spring is in the air, chips are being flung!
04/07/2026

Spring is in the air, chips are being flung!

Friday Fact Corner: While planting trees in urban areas is the sort of activity we hope to encourage, this really isn't ...
04/03/2026

Friday Fact Corner: While planting trees in urban areas is the sort of activity we hope to encourage, this really isn't the place for a sugar maple (Acer saccharum). With a root zone restricted on two sides and a source of pollution and road salt within meters of its unprotected stem, this little tree has the odds stacked against it. Combined with the openness of the location and the significant heat island from the parking lots, highway, and car dealerships all nearby, and it's going to take a lot of work to keep the urban stressors from impacting the health of this little tree. At least the city gave it some mulch for its root zone - they even made it a proper donut instead of a volcano!

Built-up urban areas are hard places for trees to grow, so species selection really needs to match the site. For boulevards like this, a large shade tree like a sugar maple is not the right choice since it needs a larger root zone than the space can provide, and it's unlikely to reach maturity due to pollution and heat stress. A smaller-stature tree that doesn't need as much root space, and will cause less disruption when it inevitably needs to be removed, would be a better option - a hedge or trident maple might make a better selection. Shingle oaks are a nice substitute for towering red oaks, while upright and tree-form serviceberries are good alternatives for thorny hawthorns and messy apples. Rather than a huge horse-chestnut, a smaller (and native) buckeye may be just the thing for the spot beside a driveway.

Since urban sites tend to reduce tree longevity significantly, why not opt to plant fast-growing but short-lived species like aspens and black locusts? The reason we don't do this, or advocate for it, is because although those trees will grow up fast, what goes up must inevitably come down. And with fast-growing pioneer species like willows, poplars, white birch, and others, there's a lot of material to come down, all at once, into what we'll call a "target-rich environment". Buildings, pedestrians, motorists, parked cars, powerlines - a good-sized poplar falling over or losing a large branch can take them out or leave them significantly damaged, and now the city is on the hook for the cost of replacement, repairs, or worse. We want urban trees to hold up structurally during their often brief lives, for their health and our safety!

Address

140 Melissa Street # 3
Fredericton, NB
E3A6W1

Opening Hours

Monday 7:30am - 7pm
Tuesday 7:30am - 7pm
Wednesday 7:30am - 7pm
Thursday 7:30am - 7pm
Friday 7:30am - 7pm

Telephone

+15064405325

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