Kitbuilderthe

Kitbuilderthe New commissions now closed. Batch assemblies only offered for sale, unallocated models you will find for sale on my website. G'day everyone. Batch assembly only.

Hand assembled locomotive kits in scales O and larger. All work is done inhouse. Please don't hesitate to contact me with your enquiry. Personal/one off commissions no longer assembled. I do not offer to assemble working/motorised models that are primarily resin/plastic 3D printed.

Black, not always.The PSC O Scale Espee AC-5 is out for a bit of sunshine, and to have a look under bright lights to see...
07/06/2026

Black, not always.

The PSC O Scale Espee AC-5 is out for a bit of sunshine, and to have a look under bright lights to see how the first colour went down.

I get this next question ---alot--- and I also see the same question in online forums, especially plastic kit modelling forums... I find it somewhat odd, I often think people might be looking for confirmation bias over information...

What paint did you use? ugh. How do you answer an innocent question, unassumingly loaded to the sh*****se.

You're not going to like this... Does it really matter what paint I use? This is going to be somewhat unpopular. If you aren't going to take the time to prep, repair, clean, etch/tooth, clean, prime, undercoat, topcoat, probably nothing I suggest will work how you want, or it might be fantastic.

If you are looking to duplicate the colour you see in a digital photograph, you're up for a task. I am looking at both the photos here and the loco across the room, the blacks are all different. The photos all look different on my PC, tablet, notebook... You aren't going to duplicate the room and photo lighting, and the black...

The black... I never paint a loco "black"... For me, most straight blacks (and there are many depths of black) are far too harsh on a layout and don't scale, the loco often disappears in photos, and so does all the detail.

I mix my own black, with a little red and sometimes just a poofteenth of white, sometimes brown. Even with a satin finish, the details are easily seen.

What brand have I used here... Valspar... Automotive paint... I get mine mixed a Litre or so at the time. There's no hope in hell I would be profitable spraying O Scale Cab Forwards with jars 10mL at a time. When done, this lump weighs about 6-7 kilos, all the weight goes through the paint when the model is handled. I like my acrylic well cured, and enamel baked. It will be about a Week before I mask the smokebox and edges of the firebox.

Thanks for hangin' around, 10/10 all of ya. Hope you find these posts useful, or less.

Almost every PSC loco I have worked on loses it in the bath. Let's have another look at this O Scale AC-5.Before I start...
31/05/2026

Almost every PSC loco I have worked on loses it in the bath. Let's have another look at this O Scale AC-5.

Before I start stripping the clear coat, I give all soldered parts a bit of tug and wobble to see if the joins are tight, or about to collapse just a bit of a look to see what I might be up against in a minute. A couple fell apart at this stage, but no more.

After 10-12 mins in my ultrasonic bath, all these were laying in the bottom of the tank.

Never assume, or trust. Another close up look and several hinge pins were missing, and a few more pipe runs had sprung away from their brackets or the detail part attached. I've always found PSC a hair shy on solder.

Better to find this out now, then after I put the clear coat on, or when it's in the customers hands... Imagine receiving a model with detail parts laying in the bottom of the box...

Decent job ahead. A large part of brass repair/repaint/work is sight unseen, but consumes many hours. The finished work you only see the top 1%, and that's the easy bit.

Thanks for hangin' round.

O Scale brass repair. Sometimes, it just is.With certain brass (and not much of it left circulating) I'm not taking a sh...
25/05/2026

O Scale brass repair. Sometimes, it just is.

With certain brass (and not much of it left circulating) I'm not taking a shortcut to save you 30c, I'm not your repairer.

Point in case, O Scale PSC AC-5. This is a larger job than many, granted.

First step in any repair I do is always disassemble to the frame, no exceptions. This came to me "with a funny knocking sound" (we know what that means)...

A complete replacement set of gears is the first job. One set is cracked, the rest were made at the same time, and won't be far behind. To get the gearbox/combined tower off the front engine, you must press the gearbox axle (and one wheel) off the gearbox to release out of the frame, it can't be removed by just unscrewing the cover plate (I think this catches many out, and why the idler is never replaced). There is risk in moving an axle pressed in place for 30 or 40 odd Years, if I break wheel centres or whatever, it's on me to find replacement, it's not happening. The risk isn't free of charge.

Every single solder join is inspected, and redone where necessary, in this case, I will be re-doing almost every one. PSC used minimal solder in a lot of spots, these models have movable hatches and doors and typically the hinges fail first. These repairs must be done now, you (I) don't want to find a loose part after the first paint goes down. Too many times over many Years I have seen brass partly repaired, pretty obvious a part did come loose at some point only to be glued back on, no thanks and not here. I warrant my work for for as long as the piece stays with the owner at the time of repair (that maybe 20+Yrs and also I need to remain vertical, of course), no one else I know of offers this.

Like alot of brass, the model has a clear protective coat, this must come off prior to any brass repair. I can already see previous solder attempts through the clear varnish, it just doesn't work.

The steps are many with an enormous inventory of parts to go with it. The four bags pictured are about half the total hardware. We haven't even gone near the tender yet, along with new motor, electronics, full lighting including the monkey porch light, custom decals, 3D printed crew...

It's been really great. I appreciate you following and looking at the photos and hopefully you pick up an idea or tip to use in your own work, that's tops. I often show these repairs to help customers (both existing and new) to understand why a repair costs as much as it does.

Muchas gracias.

Best,
Jurgen

This update will about do it for the assembly of the Veteran Models O Scale T. The important bits... The body, chassis a...
10/05/2026

This update will about do it for the assembly of the Veteran Models O Scale T.

The important bits... The body, chassis and truck side frames. These are all treated as individual assemblies, painted then the whole thing re assembled. Many components not pictured, motor, gearbox, cab interior, screws....

Handrails... Over more Years than I can be bothered to recall, I have admired some beautifully presented passenger cars and locomotives, then to have the paint work ruined by the handrails being pushed in at the end of the paintwork, and either scratching the edges of the hole, or a mark on the paint from pliers or other tool used. I always solder in handrails (glue for non metal) and either paint or use a bit of thinner to bring back the brass. I try and put a little bias in the wire so the other end "springs" into the hole and stays there, if that make sense. In the case of these T, several handrails bridge the body and chassis, I solder the handrail in at the body side, so at least if there is going to be a scratch, it's better under the step or on the sill...

I would never fit the handrails loose... They can fall off... and with 4 locos getting them mixed up is easy done, these are all hand fitted so there is small differences in each.

This will do 'er... It's been a number of posts now and I think this one has run it's course. These locos of course did not take the 5 or 6 Weeks or however many posts this has run to assemble, they are largely assembled inside of a Week or so, before preparation to paint them. My posts are not in real time.

Thanks for watching, see ya next time.

In disguise...The Veteran Models O Scale T run is about there. Maybe one more post in a Week or so and that will likely ...
04/05/2026

In disguise...

The Veteran Models O Scale T run is about there. Maybe one more post in a Week or so and that will likely do.

The Atlas chassis does need a substantial amount of material removed off the top surface, you can do this by hand with ol' mate bastard, it takes a while to get a nice result, though a vertical machine cleans up the bases in short order. If you're lucky your customer will have this done for you, if not adjust the Invoice accordingly.

The chassis is fairly quick to finish. You can see the stock Atlas SW8 chassis before and after the Veteran kit bits are added. The kit provides tank and battery box, valance and end step assemblies to represent the chassis. There are a couple of holes that need to be plugged, I use a length of square styrene bar, hammer it in the hole, glued in with Araldite. Any gaps between pilot and frame I use a metal epoxy. Finish the top surface smooth. Don't forget to mark and locate the mounting holes for the body. The frame was ready at this point to clean for painting ---before--- the motor and trucks and everything else is put back in. While I have everything apart, I'll disassemble the trucks, check gears, check gauge, clean up any flash on the universals etc, occasionally there is flash and the tiniest bit can make some funny noises, increase current draw and God knows anything else. I don't want to know about it, check it all now, I never assume just because they are produced in a large factory with the resources behind them, they are right. These aren't coming back for the "2 cent part" to be fixed.

Good fun. Thanks for watching cool dudes. See ya next time.

O Scale locomotives.The 4 Veteran Models V.R T class bodies were knocked together last Week, sorta like hump day. Now I ...
28/04/2026

O Scale locomotives.

The 4 Veteran Models V.R T class bodies were knocked together last Week, sorta like hump day. Now I head for the weekend. The radius on the sides/ends/roof profile are by far the biggest job, it's all hand finished and there's no way out of it.

Bodies were in and out of a caustic wash, In the end I gave them about 4 baths, in between a rub down (read into that how you will) I'm there or thereabouts with these, sure you could go forever making the body "professional", I'm not professional. Real trains aren't Maserati in a showroom either...

They all get set aside for a bit and I'll have a look at the chassis and everything that goes with them.

The pilots are a funny little thing to fold up. If the origami doesn't click, sometimes you need to move to the next part, see how it fits and all of a sudden it all clicks into place. That's part of the process, and one of many little obstacles along the way, however. Challenge is always good.

Thanks for watching, see ya later.

Satisfaction in spades.I have 4 of these O Scale Victorian Railways T class kits by Veteran, lets see how 2 of them are ...
19/04/2026

Satisfaction in spades.

I have 4 of these O Scale Victorian Railways T class kits by Veteran, lets see how 2 of them are coming along.

The radius on the top and ends/sides is easily the most time consuming part here. You could spend the rest of 2026 getting this "perfect" , ya gotta draw the line somewhere. I have built quite a few of these now and get the feel of good enough and better than... In the photos you can see the solder filling the half etch recess in the curve, it really is a must to do this step, don't kid yourself and skip this you will see the rebates in the final paint colour, every time.

After the radius is to my (your) satisfaction, only then can the 3 assemblies be joined. The cab get's in the way of everything, it even makes the long handrail more of a chore. The few detail parts are straight forward. The exhausts have a lot of flash (all the ones I have seen are the same) and half an exhaust looks odd so 15 minutes with a scalpel (I use Swann Morton) to get as much out as I can.

I get no other satisfaction in a hobby than building something from a flat piece of metal. While I have the eyes, a clear throat and the demand, I'll build for another 140 Years (I hope!)

These locomotives are all spoken for, I do appreciate the enquiry. I don't quote via email/phone on private/one off commission anymore. If you genuinely have a fleet and want to see it built, let's get together for an in person chat and see what we can come up with.

Thanks for looking, you're bloody great, the lot of ya.

This was an article from a few Years back, you can also find it on my website, it seems to generate some interest.Let's ...
15/04/2026

This was an article from a few Years back, you can also find it on my website, it seems to generate some interest.

Let's drill a hole...

Effed if I know how many holes in spun brass castings I have drilled over the Years, though without doubt I have tried it all and fine tuned what works for me... Maybe it won't work for you...Or maybe a mate knows better... Here's what a few thousand sub 0.5mm drilled holes in hard brass have taught me...

1. I always heat the castings with a torch until they turn cherry red, then allow to air cool. This does "soften" the brass a hair. I'm currently using the Jaycar TS-1660 and it's excellent. Usual common sense with a torch applies...

2. I prefer drill bits by Hartner. I would think most are familiar with the prolific abundance of rubbish on the various e platforms, they are ok for plastic, maybe resin, maybe whitemetal on a good day. Hard brass is a different thing. Hartner bits aren't cheap (landed in Australia they vary between 12-20AUD ea)...I don't break them every third hole either...Some here are several (yes several) Years old now, and still very sharp. I tend to keep 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm and 0.7mm and the 0.05mm clearance drills to go with them. Any of these sub 0.5mm drills I chuck right up as far as I can. Leaving much of the shank exposed as per on of the photos almost guarantees you will lose that bit pretty quickly. All drilling is done with a hand mandrel.

3. L**e it up... These tiny drills need to be lubed. A bar of soap will do ya, if you can, a block of beeswax is the ducks nuts. I've had such for around 20 odd Years now, and i'll get another 20 out of it.

4. Those castings look great to the naked eye, have another look under magnification. I always face the area to be drilled with a very sharp small file. Otherwise the drill will have a hard time getting a start and once started, you want it to be square and headed in the right direction. A slight wander or if the drill bit starts to go in on an angle, good luck correcting.

5. Stop often. Never drill in the "one go"... I'll drill a few turns, back the drill out, relube, and go again, repeat until the desired depth is achieved. It won't take long before your hand is cramped and it's here alot of drill bits are broken, this is exactly the right time to stop and have a quick break.

6. That's about it. Where possible, I always drill right through the casting for best shear strength, there's little durability in butt joining. Granted, not always possible for all castings.
All the photo's and links below to what I use. Some of the stuff you will find in my store, some elsewhere. You all know where to find me by now, I'm only an email away with any question. Some of the bits pictured I am either a stockist or reseller, everything paid for by myself. I'm not interested in the bu****it, you will know when I am gifted product.

https://www.hartner.de/
https://www.jurgenengel.com/.../burfitt-600-grit-diamond...
https://www.jurgenengel.com/.../burfitt-320-grit-diamond...
https://www.jaycar.com.au/piezo-ignition-micro.../p/TS1660

Forgot an update. Veteran Models O Scale V.R T en masse. At this point I am wanting to get 4 bodies assembled, with some...
14/04/2026

Forgot an update.

Veteran Models O Scale V.R T en masse.

At this point I am wanting to get 4 bodies assembled, with some of the detailing fitted. For me, It's infinitely easier to fit detail earlier, when bodies are either flat or still in individual sub assemblies, such as the 3 sections with the T (nose, cab, long hood). Many kits will have you build "the box" then add all the details. I find it far too hard trying to add details to an end standing a foot in the air...
There's a couple of different versions of the T here, easy to keep track of as the kit differences are significant enough to make it obvious at a glance.

Finishing the roof and side/end rounded edges... a bit at a time... for me it's the biggest mental roadblock with this kit. Once I tidied that up, things fly.

After I took these photos all the sections went for another swim. Cleaning as you go is far easier than leaving everything at the end, too much fragile stuff gets in the way at the end.

These T are presold, I'm not doing anymore this Year. If I can get enough interest (at least 4), I will give it some thought for next.

Thanks for watching, you're great, the lot of ya. See ya next time.

Back to the O Scale V.R T kit by Veteran Models.Those little flanges I mentioned last time.Once the ends/hood sides are ...
30/03/2026

Back to the O Scale V.R T kit by Veteran Models.
Those little flanges I mentioned last time.

Once the ends/hood sides are bent, there are a series of small recesses in the corners that need to be filled. For me, being metal there is only one option, fill them with solder and file the curve back. It doesn't always start out pretty, I like to try and balance extra solder over the top of the corners (if that makes sense) and then file back.

I always use a large 12" file, to maintain a good straight edge when filing. I tend to replace things like files fairly often, but one ol' bastard has smoothed down over many Years and it gives me the perfect feel filing over solder. This is not a job for very small hobby files.

The finish is up to you and how much time you want to give it. For interest, it takes me about 15-30 minutes to get to the point in the pictures.

Brass and solder can be hard to visualise (for me). With so many corners the light bounces and reflects all over the place. Don't get sucked in to thinking it's not right, grab a cheap can of grey aerosol and give it a quick paint, you might done before you know it.

Some photos have captions.

Thanks for following.

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