06/01/2026
Monday Maintenance Tip: So You Just Moved to Well Water
If you’ve spent your whole life on city water, moving to a home with a well can feel like learning a new language. You turn on the faucet and it works — but what’s actually happening behind the scenes? Here’s a quick breakdown.
Two types of well pumps
There are two common setups. A jet pump sits above ground, usually in your basement or utility room, and pulls water up from the well. These are typically found on shallower wells and are easy to access for service. A submersible pump lives inside the well casing itself, submerged in the water, and pushes water up to the house. Most modern wells use submersibles because they’re more efficient and reliable on deeper wells. If you’re not sure which one you have, the giveaway is simple — if you can see a pump in your basement tied to a pipe coming up from the ground, it’s a jet pump. If there’s nothing visible and just a pipe coming up with a wire running down it, it’s a submersible.
What the pressure tank does
That big tank in your basement or utility room isn’t storing water — well, not much of it. It holds a charge of air that works against a bladder inside. When the pump runs, water fills the tank and compresses that air. When you open a faucet, the pressure in the tank pushes water to you without the pump having to kick on every single second. The pump turns on when pressure drops to the low set point (usually around 30–40 psi) and shuts off at the high point (usually 50–60 psi). That cycle is totally normal. What’s not normal is the pump running constantly or short-cycling — turning on and off every few seconds. That usually means the tank has lost its air charge and needs attention.
Common issues and how to spot them
No water at all — check your pressure gauge near the tank. If it reads zero, the pump may have lost power or failed. Check the breaker first.
Pump won’t stop running — if you can hear the pump running continuously and pressure stays low or won’t build, you may have a bad pump, a broken pipe in the well, or a pressure switch that’s stuck.
Short cycling — pump kicks on and off rapidly. Classic sign of a waterlogged pressure tank. The bladder has failed and the tank needs to be replaced.
Sputtering or air in the lines — occasional sputtering when you first open a faucet can be normal, but consistent air in your water can signal the well is running low or the pump intake is above the water level.
Dirty or discolored water — can be sediment, a failing pump screen, or a sign the well needs to be shocked and tested. Always a good reason to get a water test done.
Loss of pressure — gradual pressure drop can be a pump wearing out, mineral buildup in the system, or a slow leak somewhere.
One simple thing every well owner should do
Know where your pressure gauge is and what normal looks like. Walk past it occasionally. If it’s sitting at zero or pegged high and won’t move, something’s wrong. Catching it early saves a lot of headaches.
Questions about your well system? Give us a call — 215-990-7408.
