30/07/2026
After Taliesin West we drove north to visit one of FLW’s former apprentices - Paolo Soleri’s experimental ‘arcology’ Arcosanti . A pioneer of ecologically conscious design. The sand-cast structures were fantastic. Mounds of earth were built as concrete formwork, carved and covered with pigment that the concrete then absorbed, with the earth being dug out. There was a sense of sadness and almost post-apocalyptic feel to arcosanti. It was like standing in the ruins of an ancient civilisation, though its peak was 40 years ago and many still live there. Designed to accommodate 7000, it reached about 250. Now there’s a dozen - the cafe had closed, farming had ceased, and the music festivals hadn’t happened in years. Hard to tell if it’s in a period of transition or decline. The whole thing seemed to be fuelled by the intense energy of Soleri, gone for almost 15 years. He seems like a complex figure, but no doubt a creative hurricane. Every structure and the sandcast & bronze bells they make bore traces of his (exquisite) sculptural forms, which seemed to be at odds with the communal ideals it was founded around. We stayed the night in his former studio, which was extra special being able to inhabit and explore the space over time and in different light, rather than being bustled through quickly as is typical on architectural tours.
